Battery Backup?

archangle wrote:Did the Respironics person say you shouldn't run the humidifier off an inverter? Did they use the "modified sine wave" term? I haven't ever heard any info on that from Respironics before.

I was focused on the problems that the connectors on my machine did not look like the ones on the 12V cables she at first was suggesting.

I did not think to go into the humidifier question, since I can do without it for a few days. However, now I realize the machine cannot be powered from 12 V batteries without either an expensive connector, or using the batteries to provide AC 120V power which is then converted back to DC (with an appreciable power loss). Thus, I will probably try calling back to find out more. In particular, I wonder if I set the humidification at 0 do I bypass the circuitry, or could it still be fried. I fear I won't get an accurate answer because they either will just not know (and not wish to track someone down in engineering who would know), or do not wish to advise taking a risk they might be blamed for, or simply wish to sell an expensive device.

It seems clear it would have been easy for Respironics to have avoided this problem either by having a divider at the end of the power cord into which the humidifier could be plugged if desired, (or removed if not desired), or by having a switch such that the humidifier could be isolated. I suspect building in a 12V plug somewhere would have been fairly easy although I do not know what is inside the "brick". a 24 V plug could also have been used, although this would force people to arrange for such a power supply (such as putting two batteries in series). The combination of campers, those who anticipate power outages, and those who can get DC power easier than Ac power (possibly certain truckers,and boaters) or those with solar power, would seem large enough to have justified this.

GumbyCT wrote:

GumbyCT wrote:

ProfessorEd wrote:Question I have is how to connect the battery units to the Respironics BiPap M model (tank version with a large power brick). I see the transformer unit has 26 volts written on it, so I gather a direct 12 V connection is not going to work.

The M series IS 12V so if you are seeing 26V then you don't have an M.

Check for the model number on the bottom of your machine.

Does it look like this?
https://www.cpap.com/cpap-machine/respi ... -pro2.html

IF your BiPap looks like that it IS 24V. I think they call the connector a DIN plug. I forget whether it is a 3 or 4 pin DIN but is in fact 24 VDC. It converts 12V to 24V is maybe where you are getting confused.

But I do agree for the money you will be much better off to get a new System One BiPap Machine. Then you can get the right adapter cuz the new hires will know what you need.

fwiw - I think the link to the tank bipap at cpap.com now contains misinformation; to wit: the wrong DC voltage. I have alerted JG to check that page.

This PN is what you will need for your BiPap Tank - it is a 12 to 24V adapater -

ProfessorEd wrote:Part #1012975 (list at $165) "RP-DC Power Adapter Kit for Respironics Bipap Machines" which has the right connector for my BiPap machine.

Good Luck Young Man

I feel uncomfortable asking for a new machine just to avoid an expensive cable, although I suspect I could get one. It probably depends on whether the newer machines have other improvements over this machine (notably being easier to get data off of) and I have not studied the issue enough to know, although the changes I know of appear to be rather minor in value (and my sleep doctor seems to have the same view).

A new machine this year would probably make it harder to get a new one next year or so, if they bring out ones with major improvements, so the anticipated pace of improvements is a key question. If I do this there is a question as to whether I would benefit from a AVAPS machine.

It is sort of amusing that I probably could not get a $165 connector paid for, but could get a new machine paid for to accomplish the same goal, but I suspect that is the case. Also, it is probably in my financial interest (even if not that of Medicare or my secondary insurer) to take a risk with the humidifier (using a modified sine save generator), and if it burns out to then seek an replacement of what would then be a six year old machine.

ProfessorEd wrote:I feel uncomfortable asking for a new machine just to avoid an expensive cable, although I suspect I could get one. It probably depends on whether the newer machines have other improvements over this machine (notably being easier to get data off of) and I have not studied the issue enough to know, although the changes I know of appear to be rather minor in value (and my sleep doctor seems to have the same view).

A new machine this year would probably make it harder to get a new one next year or so, if they bring out ones with major improvements, so the anticipated pace of improvements is a key question. If I do this there is a question as to whether I would benefit from a AVAPS machine.

THEN, you should just wait until this old machine dies and then can't get a new one for 2 or 3 weeks. Your call.

IF you get a new machine this year what makes you think you will need another next year?

So then buy a PRS1 off Craigslist this year so you can wait til next year. Easy enuff.

If you can get a PRS1 machine to replace your M series, do so. The improved data collection and accessibility is worth a lot in itself, even if you don't ever need to run off of batteries.

Hose_Head wrote:[

Also, you should have your marine battery tested to see if it's still good (most garages can test it); they don't last forever.

My new device reports a 13 V on the marine battery. Is this what a garage would do, or do they have better tests?

I gather you do not recommend recharging the marine battery from the new Power Source. I presume this gives too fast a charge rate?