REMstar heated humidifier cracking plastic reservoir chamber

bwinch · Post by **bwinch** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 11:07 am

I have used the REMstar Plus for about a year and have resolved mask and humidification problems.

In the last four months, I have managed to crack 4 of the water reservoir chambers. So they leak, which has led to the replacement of one humidifier heater @$160 (chambers are a more reasonable $20 ea.).

Yes, I do add about 2 teaspoons of Vicks Vap-o-steam to the chamber (tap) water to keep my nose open (contents alcohol (unknown type) cedarleaf oil, eucalyptus oil, laureth-7, menthol, nutmeg oil, poloxamer 124, silicone). I clean the chamber daily using a little 409 (two sprays), and vinegar (15 spays from an old 409 bottle), swish it around and rinse. I no longer take the bottom aluminum plate off to clean as I felt that I was cracking them when pressing them together again. In any case, my immediate solution to the leaks is to glue the whole thing together permanently with Permatex Black silicone adhesive/sealant, and to run a bead of the sealant up the cracks to at least above the water line. That's OK until a new crack develops.

It's too late for my present set of reservoir chambers, but I have started adding just a dropperfull of the Vap-o-steam directly into the hose end on the theory that hoses are cheaper than reservoirs. I'll advise whether this helps with the new chambers I've ordered.

Has anyone had this problem? Am I just too hamfisted? I slide the reservoir in ever so carefully.

Byron "He could break an anvil" Winchell

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 1:57 pm

bwinch wrote:Yes, I do add about 2 teaspoons of Vicks Vap-o-steam to the chamber (tap) water to keep my nose open (contents alcohol (unknown type) cedarleaf oil, eucalyptus oil, laureth-7, menthol, nutmeg oil, poloxamer 124, silicone). I clean the chamber daily using a little 409 (two sprays), and vinegar (15 spays from an old 409 bottle), swish it around and rinse. I no longer take the bottom aluminum plate off to clean as I felt that I was cracking them when pressing them together again.

I would suggest you immediately stop adding the Vicks solution. It is made for use with STEAM. Your cpap humidifier does not create steam. The alcohol in it is probably drying the plastic and making it brittle. Also, perhaps one (or more) of the ingredients gets too hot for the plastic to handle once heated. I would also suggest you stop using tap water and start using distilled water. I would also suggest you stop using 409 to clean your humidifier because it is NOT a recommended cleaning agent (and it also contains alcohol which makes the plastic brittle).

The warning on your Vicks vapo steam states it is meant to be put in a reservoir cup - never to be added to the water chamber of a vaporiser as it may harm the unit. It is for steam use only. It is not for use with a humidifier. Your cpap humidifier does not create steam.

When using this product do not:

*Heat
*Microwave
*Use near an open flame
*Take by mouth
*Direct steam from the vaporizer too close to the face
*Add to hot water or any container where heating water - except when adding to cold water for use in a hot steam vaporizer.

bwinch · Post by **bwinch** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 7:03 pm

Putting two and two together, I'd say my cracked reservoir problem didn't happen until after I started using Vicks Vap-O-Steam. The cracking happened just later enough to fuzz the issue a little, at least in my tiny mind.

So you are undoubtedly right about not putting anything but distilled water in the chamber (ditto not using 409 as a cleaner). Distilled water doesn't cost too much and I can keep a bottle in the bedroom or upstairs bathroom; it will eliminate mineral buildup and make cleanup easier.

Thanks,

Byron Winchell

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 8:01 pm

I think your problems were due to contamination, Distilled water only is the safe way.

But needless to say Remstar could stand to beef the tank up especially the plastic where the base fits, way too thin of a lip. I am careful and only use distilled water but today I had to get a new one, it's been damp for two days and I couldn't find a reason. This morning I found it from the bottom to the top. Got a new one free and kept the old one for lab rat work.

Goofproof on the no Log-In computer. Still!

roztom · Post by **roztom** » Sat Feb 25, 2006 12:52 pm

I've had mine 9 days and it is now cracked.

I've only had distilled water in it and I carefully slide it out in the morning to empty it and today I noticed a crack up the back.

SO, I guess no humidity until I get it replaced.

Actually I'm going to put it in a plastic bag - ziplock type, with water and use it as a passive humidity with the heat off until I get a replacement.

Tom

Goofproof · Post by **Goofproof** » Sat Feb 25, 2006 1:53 pm

roztom wrote:I've had mine 9 days and it is now cracked.

I've only had distilled water in it and I carefully slide it out in the morning to empty it and today I noticed a crack up the back.

SO, I guess no humidity until I get it replaced.

Actually I'm going to put it in a plastic bag - ziplock type, with water and use it as a passive humidity with the heat off until I get a replacement.

Tom

Your DME will replace it and it's a HOT ITEM, pun intended, I got my new one and will never take the bottom off again. (Just Distilled Water Please)

Having a removable bottom on a cheap design, bad. But the machines are great.

_________________

CPAPopedia Keywords Contained In This Post (Click For Definition): DME

roztom · Post by **roztom** » Sat Feb 25, 2006 3:20 pm

I find it amazing that it would crack - I've carefully slid it on & off every morning to empty it and have never removed it from the metal base and only use distilled water and it cracked.

I will hit up my DME for a replacement but at $20 each I should probably get a spare.

Not a great design though. IMHO.

Tom

roztom · Post by **roztom** » Sat Feb 25, 2006 3:34 pm

UPon closer examination, there is a crack that runs down at an angle on the side that faces the air inlet. It runs from the baffle down to the center of the back plastic. If I run my finger over it you can feel the crack but when I checked the inside of the housing, it was smooth - the crack doesn't go all the way thru the plastic.

Is this a seam of some kind and not a crack?

Anyone?

Thanks,

Tom

NightHawkeye · Post by **NightHawkeye** » Sat Feb 25, 2006 4:21 pm

roztom wrote:Is this a seam of some kind and not a crack?

Yep, it's the mold seam. Plastic molds have to have seams so they can be removed from the plastic afterwards.

I know what you mean though, it struck me as a crack the first time I saw it too.

Regards,
Bill

roztom · Post by **roztom** » Sat Feb 25, 2006 4:26 pm

Thanks Bill:

I'll sleep better tonight knowing I don't have a cracked casing.

I think I'll get a spare anyway.

Best of sleep,

Tom

NightHawkeye · Post by **NightHawkeye** » Sat Feb 25, 2006 4:45 pm

roztom wrote:I think I'll get a spare anyway.

At $20 it's a bargain at least compared to everything else in the CPAP universe.

Regards,
Bill

bwinch · Post by **bwinch** » Sat Feb 25, 2006 5:09 pm

To All,

I guess you could say that the reservoir is not all it's cracked up to be (ouch!). I've had the new ones (yep, I bought two so I'd have a spare) for 10 days and so far, so good.

I am using distilled water and not putting anything in the reservoir like Vicks Vap-o-Steam. I don't clean it as often, like once every 3-4 days, and so put less strain on the plastic on removal and replacement.

The plastic could be thicker. But the $20 per reservoir replacement is fairly reasonable as CPAP prices go.

Hope this means problem is over.

Byron

marc-1 · Post by **marc-1** » Fri Dec 10, 2010 4:05 am

guys, I just got a leak in mine as well. I think it was because I used Vicks as well. I originally thought it was a crack but after closer examination, the bottom of the reservoir that is aluminum glued to the plastic is coming unglued. I wish there was someone looking to make some money reading these coments since I cannot live without my Vicks in the water.

bwinch@yahoo.com · Post by **bwinch@yahoo.com** » Fri Dec 10, 2010 9:21 am

Those rolled and coated edges on the aluminum bottom of the reservoir are not glued. It fits into the bottom of the plastic reservoir like a cork in a bottle. The coating you have taken for glue is sort of a gasket. The bottom is meant to be detached in order to clean the inside of the plastic. You can shake vinegar in it all day, and it won't clean out a film build-up.

After cleaning, put the aluminum bottom piece flat on the counter. A little moisture on the seal material helps but nothing else should be smeared on, especially not vaseline or anything like that. Press the plastic reservoir carefully down onto the seals with the heel of your hand until it is firmly seated. Test water-tightness before putting it into the machine for the night.

bwinch@yahoo.com · Post by **bwinch@yahoo.com** » Fri Dec 10, 2010 9:34 am

Also, Marc1:

I stopped having cracking problems when I stopped cleaning with 409 and putting vicks vapor rub liquid in the reservoir.

At one point, I bought an inline "bacteria filter" to put in the hose line. I really bought it to see if it would work and to make up an order large enough to qualify for free shipping.

I didn't like the amount of restriction the filter put on airflow and didn't use it. The only reason I've brought it up is to suggest that you might use some kind of downstream chamber (from the reservoir) like that filter in your air hose to put your Vicks into your CPAP system. The Vicks, even if it does not crack the reservoir plastic, may compromise the "cork in a bottle" seal between the aluminum plate and the plastic by making it too slick. Then the plastic part "creeps" out over time resulting in your leak.

I don't use Vicks anymore. If I have stuffiness problems, I use OTC nose spray or a course of Fluticasone Propionate nasal spray prescribed by the doctor. Even common saline nasal spray helps nasal stuffiness.

Good luck.

REMstar heated humidifier cracking plastic reservoir chamber