General Discussion on any topic relating to CPAP and/or Sleep Apnea.
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Guest
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by Guest » Sat Dec 24, 2005 9:21 am
Perry wrote:
I have used alcohol pads every day for over 6 years to clean my ResMed silicon cushions every morning. I currently average 9 - 12 months life per cushion. I am not sure why anyone would think that alcohol degrades the cushion.
Because the manufacturer says it will?
Caution:
• Do not use solutions containing bleach, chlorine, alcohol, aromatics, moisturizers, antibacterial agents or scented oils to clean any part of the system or air tubing. These solutions may cause damage and reduce the life of the product.
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Perry
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:26 pm
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by Perry » Sat Dec 24, 2005 10:04 am
Interesting: I don't believe that ResMed use to say all of that. Back when I started I was told to use alcohol to clean the cushion.
I can see how alcohol could degrade some of the other plastics. I only use it on the silicon rubber cushion.
How much life are people getting from their cushions with other cleaning methods (and how long do they take). I am not a fan of dismantling and cleaning my mask much when I have a method that works very well.
Perry
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SnoreNoMore2005
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- Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 12:58 pm
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by SnoreNoMore2005 » Sat Dec 24, 2005 11:53 am
Perry thanks for the detailed information. I had been told that one should never run their humidifier without water in it which sounds like what you're recommending to dry the hose out. I've wondered about the moisture in the hose. Seems like the damp hose would be a great place for all kinds of nasty things to grow.
SnoreNoMore2005
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Perry
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:26 pm
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by Perry » Sat Dec 24, 2005 2:26 pm
I turn the power off on the humidifier, or at most try to leave power on for no more than a few minutes. That way the bottom of the humidifier chamber drys out quickly (and can handle any drips down from the hose).
On occasion I have left the humidifier power on all day (perhaps once a month) while leaving the CPAP on idle. After many years I do not see any real problems with my equipment. I will admit that I am on my second humidifier. The first one died after about 4 years in the middle of the night.
I agree that damp hoses and mask would be great places for things to grow. I've even seen some examples with other people's equipment. They were wondering why they were sick and could not recover.
I really do not like the PAP's with Auto on/off for just this reason. Several years ago when I tested one of these I had to hook up my rig to a second PAP machine to dry things out every day.
Perry
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CPAPopedia Keywords Contained In This Post (Click For Definition):
humidifier,
hose,
CPAP,
Power
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Guest
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by Guest » Mon Dec 26, 2005 11:16 pm
The UltraMirage FF mask (and the SeriesII) come equipped from the factory with a built-in anti-asphixia valve. This valve is required on Full Face masks for your safety.
On the UMFF this valve is incorporated into the upper 360 degree swivel attached to the mask (you will see "slots" all the way around it closest to the mask's base).
The UMFF has another horizontal 360 degree swivel where the flex hose connects. As Perry mentioned, there is a clip on the inside of the mask that retains the main swivel/valve to the mask then there is another clip on the lower swivel in the slot, this lower swivel can become dislodged but it should snap right back together, I've only had it come apart once on me.
It is important not to block those "slots" on the upper swivel as that is the anti-asphixia valve. There is no physical flapper valve, it works on a reverse siphon principal, or as long as air pressure is blowing from the cpap machine no air should be escaping those "slots". If you turn off the machine with the mask on then air should enter and escape from those slots around the upper swivel.
should you lose electrical power, this valve will prevent you from accidently suffocating.
The exhaust part of this mask is made up of a silicone pad located up high in the nosebridge area and has six holes. You want to make sure these holes are always left open.
As the incoming air enters the mask via the elbow it pushes any exhaled air up and out the six exhaust holes. This mask has excellent CO2 washout, and by some standards possibly even too much.
When you adjust this mask you should do so laying down in bed with your head on the pillow just as you would be sleeping. Then with the machine On, push the center button in the upper forehead swivel and adjust so the mask is parallel with the face, if you go too much you will have leaks in the chin area, if you go too much the opposite you'll have leaks into the eyes (this is not good). So adjust the pivot to eliminate leaks into the eyes.
When adjusting the straps, grab both sides with each hand (again machine is On) losen the velcro and adjust just until the leaking stops. The top straps should allow the forehead pads to be pulled away from the forehead about 1/8".
As with all the UltraMirage series masks, never overtighten the straps to eliminate leaks, this can make the mask leak more as it develops a crease in the cushion which leads to more leaking.
Be sure to wash and dry your face before putting on the mask, skin oils, face creams etc. can make the mask leak more.
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GoodKnight
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:21 am
- Location: California
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by GoodKnight » Tue Dec 27, 2005 10:07 am
In the morning I dry the mask and cushion out with plain tissue paper (I use maximum humidity and live in rainout...),
Perry,
Do you use the Aussie Heated Hose?
I recently got one and have been amazed at how well it works. No rainout, no wet mask, no wet hose. And the air is warm and comfortable on your face.
I can't understand why the machine manufactures are not supplying heated hoses as standard equipment.
With the hose you have complete freedom to set the humidifier temperature where you want it without unwanted comsequences.
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