
Powerhouse generators - anyone tried these units?
- Sir NoddinOff
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Powerhouse generators - anyone tried these units?
I don't recall this specific Powerhouse brand discussed before on this forum. I've copied part of the newspaper ad for the Powerhouse pure sine wave inverter type generators. I'm thinking of car camping and power outages for this unit... the prices seem really good compared to the Hondas, which are the gold standard. Has anyone owned a Powerhouse, borrowed one or info regarding its reliability? Check the photobucket image below for specs and description (right click on image and select "view image" to see the whole picture): Note. there are four more higher wattage models that seem designed for construction sites.


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Re: Powerhouse generators - anyone tried these units?
I remember mentioning this:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200585498
But I have yet to get it.
In my residential town the Noise Level (dB) 53 at 1/4 load; 59 at rated load, is the maximum noise allowance between 9 p.m. and 7 a.m.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200585498
But I have yet to get it.
In my residential town the Noise Level (dB) 53 at 1/4 load; 59 at rated load, is the maximum noise allowance between 9 p.m. and 7 a.m.
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Re: Powerhouse generators - anyone tried these units?
China? 500 watt is really small load. I have a 800 watt an it won't run much. It's a Honeywell China also looks a lot like it, I've had it 8 months never had it running.... The problen is cost of fuel and storage of fuel. Jim
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Re: Powerhouse generators - anyone tried these units?
I use PRI-G as a fuel additive ... My little generator is a Honda EU2000i ... Real can cover a lot of stuff ... Just can't run everything at once!
Or ... If you want to go the cheap route, some people have been have good luck with the Harbor Freight $130 800w china generator ... With a few modifications.
Everything you ever wanted to know about the Harbor Freight Generator.
29 pages of comments, hints,and how does.
http://www.harborfreight.com/63cc-900-W ... QiLCJza3Ui OiI2MDMzOCIsImlzIjoiODkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0A IjoiOTA1NyJ9%0D%0A9
Evidently they are pretty good units.
See the posts about getting a better spark plug and check to make sure the bolts are tight.
Champion N11YC
NGK BPR5ES
Bosch WR9DC
(0.028 - 0.031" gap)
Make sure it runs first & breaks correctly under load.
89 octane, synthetic 2 stroke oil.
Seafoam periodicallly.
Don't store with fuel in it more than a 1 week+
Upgrade plug
You can buy the HF, "two year, no questions asked, exchange-for-a-new-one" warranty on this for around $15. Definitely money well spent.
sine wave by an stretch of the imagination, it isn't a spikey waveform that's likely to damage "sensitive" electronics, either. As long as you observe a few precautions, you'll probably be just fine powering most loads:
1. Don't start the generator engine with AC loads connected.
2. Allow the engine to fully warm up before connecting your AC loads.
3. Don't shut the generator engine off with AC loads connected.
4. Disconnect AC loads well before the engine runs out of gas or oil, so that your loads aren't exposed to any wild voltage or frequency swings when the engine begins to stumble or surge.
Also, the AC waveform looks a lot better with a decent-sized AC load connected. So, try to avoid powering small, sensitive loads by themselves - use the "buddy system" to pair small sensitive loads with a larger, stable load.
Replace the stock Chinese-made spark plug with an NGK (7832) BP5ES standard spark plug. I keep a spare in my emergency parts kit that I carry in the Jeep while in the field.
While you have the spark plug out, give the cylinder a shot of STA-BIL fogging oil to provide initial lubrication to the cylinder/piston rings. Replace the spark plug, but leave the wire off. Now give the starter a couple of pulls to ensure the oil is coating the cylinder walls. This helps to protect the cylinder during the first few seconds of running until enough oil has entered the system.
The original fuel inlet line is cheap rubber and often not correctly installed on the generator. Replace this hose to the carburetor with a good quality fuel line. Also add an inline fuel filter for Briggs & Stratton engines, part no. 298090. You’ll need two new clamps to add the filter in the line. Make sure the line is fully seated and the hose clamps (now 4 with the inline filter) are securely fastened in the proper position (over the hose and barb). I carry a spare filter in the emergency kit as well. By the way, I know this is very old fashioned of me, but I much prefer worm-gear hose clamps over the squeeze type. That’s just me.
Use a very high quality NMMA-TCW3 certified 2-cycle engine oil mixed at 50:1 ratio.
Although the manual states to run 89+ octane fuel, many users have found it best to run only 91+ octane gasoline. I buy the highest grade available at the pump.
Add STA-BIL fuel stabilizer at a rate of ½ ounce per gallon of gas to protect against clogging and fouling while the generator/gasoline is being stored.
Follow the 25 hour break-in procedure in the manual to the letter.
Perform the recommended maintenance at the intervals stated in the manual.
When I store the generator over the winter, I start the generator, then turn off the fuel valve letting the generator run dry. The STA-BIL in the tank will keep the fuel from fouling. When the generator cools down, I remove the spark plug, and give it a shot of fogging oil. Then replace the plug and give the starter a couple of pulls to distribute the oil.
My break-in consisted of running the generator for a total time of 25 hours over a period of 5 days, with a 500 watt halogen work light plugged in. In order to track runtime for maintenance, I keep a run/maintenance log of when I run the generator, for how long, at what elevation and any maintenance I perform.
http://utahlepidoptera.com/2011/12/23/hello-world/
Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5vmBVuJGac
Or ... If you want to go the cheap route, some people have been have good luck with the Harbor Freight $130 800w china generator ... With a few modifications.
Everything you ever wanted to know about the Harbor Freight Generator.
29 pages of comments, hints,and how does.
http://www.harborfreight.com/63cc-900-W ... QiLCJza3Ui OiI2MDMzOCIsImlzIjoiODkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0A IjoiOTA1NyJ9%0D%0A9
Evidently they are pretty good units.
See the posts about getting a better spark plug and check to make sure the bolts are tight.
Champion N11YC
NGK BPR5ES
Bosch WR9DC
(0.028 - 0.031" gap)
Make sure it runs first & breaks correctly under load.
89 octane, synthetic 2 stroke oil.
Seafoam periodicallly.
Don't store with fuel in it more than a 1 week+
Upgrade plug
You can buy the HF, "two year, no questions asked, exchange-for-a-new-one" warranty on this for around $15. Definitely money well spent.
sine wave by an stretch of the imagination, it isn't a spikey waveform that's likely to damage "sensitive" electronics, either. As long as you observe a few precautions, you'll probably be just fine powering most loads:
1. Don't start the generator engine with AC loads connected.
2. Allow the engine to fully warm up before connecting your AC loads.
3. Don't shut the generator engine off with AC loads connected.
4. Disconnect AC loads well before the engine runs out of gas or oil, so that your loads aren't exposed to any wild voltage or frequency swings when the engine begins to stumble or surge.
Also, the AC waveform looks a lot better with a decent-sized AC load connected. So, try to avoid powering small, sensitive loads by themselves - use the "buddy system" to pair small sensitive loads with a larger, stable load.
Replace the stock Chinese-made spark plug with an NGK (7832) BP5ES standard spark plug. I keep a spare in my emergency parts kit that I carry in the Jeep while in the field.
While you have the spark plug out, give the cylinder a shot of STA-BIL fogging oil to provide initial lubrication to the cylinder/piston rings. Replace the spark plug, but leave the wire off. Now give the starter a couple of pulls to ensure the oil is coating the cylinder walls. This helps to protect the cylinder during the first few seconds of running until enough oil has entered the system.
The original fuel inlet line is cheap rubber and often not correctly installed on the generator. Replace this hose to the carburetor with a good quality fuel line. Also add an inline fuel filter for Briggs & Stratton engines, part no. 298090. You’ll need two new clamps to add the filter in the line. Make sure the line is fully seated and the hose clamps (now 4 with the inline filter) are securely fastened in the proper position (over the hose and barb). I carry a spare filter in the emergency kit as well. By the way, I know this is very old fashioned of me, but I much prefer worm-gear hose clamps over the squeeze type. That’s just me.
Use a very high quality NMMA-TCW3 certified 2-cycle engine oil mixed at 50:1 ratio.
Although the manual states to run 89+ octane fuel, many users have found it best to run only 91+ octane gasoline. I buy the highest grade available at the pump.
Add STA-BIL fuel stabilizer at a rate of ½ ounce per gallon of gas to protect against clogging and fouling while the generator/gasoline is being stored.
Follow the 25 hour break-in procedure in the manual to the letter.
Perform the recommended maintenance at the intervals stated in the manual.
When I store the generator over the winter, I start the generator, then turn off the fuel valve letting the generator run dry. The STA-BIL in the tank will keep the fuel from fouling. When the generator cools down, I remove the spark plug, and give it a shot of fogging oil. Then replace the plug and give the starter a couple of pulls to distribute the oil.
My break-in consisted of running the generator for a total time of 25 hours over a period of 5 days, with a 500 watt halogen work light plugged in. In order to track runtime for maintenance, I keep a run/maintenance log of when I run the generator, for how long, at what elevation and any maintenance I perform.
http://utahlepidoptera.com/2011/12/23/hello-world/
Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5vmBVuJGac
"I am a man of peace, but if war comes to my door it will find me home." - Winston Churchill
- Sir NoddinOff
- Posts: 4190
- Joined: Mon May 14, 2012 5:30 pm
- Location: California
Re: Powerhouse generators - anyone tried these units?
Thanks for the wealth of knowledge guys. I guess I've got some reading up and research to do before I make a decision. I thought you just checked the fuel, turned 'em on and plugged in your stuff. I had a big generator about forty years ago, don't even remember the brand, and it lasted for half a dozen years tho it didn't get a lot of usage. That was before all the 'delicate' circuit boards and micro chips etc. EDIT: Thanks for pointing out the sound level of 50db. I did some research and most sound level charts compare that to normal conversation at 3 feet, a dishwasher running or moderate rainfall. That's really pretty loud to run in a campground, tho for power outages I could run the generator in my garage since it's well ventilated.
_________________
Mask: AirFit™ F10 Full Face Mask with Headgear |
Additional Comments: Sleepyhead software v.0.9.8.1 Open GL and Encore Pro v2.2. |
I like my ResMed AirFit F10 FFM - reasonably low leaks for my ASV therapy. I'm currently using a PR S1 AutoSV 960P Advanced. I also keep a ResMed S9 Adapt as backup. I use a heated Hibernite hose. Still rockin' with Win 7 by using GWX to stop Win 10.