CL 2 question - that metal thing
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- Posts: 142
- Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 6:41 am
CL 2 question - that metal thing
Hi Forum Guests and Members,
I have been successfully using the CL - 2 with nasal pillows, medium, for 3 months. Sometimes the metal prong that stabilizes the apparatus slips out if its socket in the middle of the night - was wondering if this happens to anyone else? The metal thing is like an inverted T, and it is the stem of the T that goes upwards that gets displaced. I jammed it in pretty hard, and have had a few nights without problems. Just wondering.
My nose is totally happy on this interface. I loved the Breeze for a good nights' sleep, but my nares were much more vulnerable on it.
Regards,
AII
I have been successfully using the CL - 2 with nasal pillows, medium, for 3 months. Sometimes the metal prong that stabilizes the apparatus slips out if its socket in the middle of the night - was wondering if this happens to anyone else? The metal thing is like an inverted T, and it is the stem of the T that goes upwards that gets displaced. I jammed it in pretty hard, and have had a few nights without problems. Just wondering.
My nose is totally happy on this interface. I loved the Breeze for a good nights' sleep, but my nares were much more vulnerable on it.
Regards,
AII
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- Posts: 315
- Joined: Sun May 14, 2006 8:20 am
it happened to me
a couple of times ...
it was when I tried to flatten out the pillows to much
it has not happened in a while ... i but the head gear a little
higher on my head ... but the number tube about 4 and but a
little less flattten on the body and it has stopped
hope this helps
wolf
it was when I tried to flatten out the pillows to much
it has not happened in a while ... i but the head gear a little
higher on my head ... but the number tube about 4 and but a
little less flattten on the body and it has stopped
hope this helps
wolf
CL2 metal in Nasal Pillows and Direct Seal
Hi,
I have not had any problem with metal inserts.
Lowell
I have not had any problem with metal inserts.
Lowell
BIPAP Auto BIFLEX set to range 12 - 20 cm H2O with BIFLEX set to 3, AUTO:ON, and Humidifier:2.
Yes, I have had this problem, ie the metal piece coming out, when i use CL2 I find it hard to get it adjusted to make the left pillow fit and to stop it leaking, I usually end up cramming it into my nostril and around 3 or 4 a.m. switching to the non pillow fitting or my Breeze.
Re Breeze and sore nares, that does stop. I switched from the large I was "professionally" fitted with to medium. - I went for a recheck on the size but all he did was try the large on me then tell me they didnt leak! WOW! guess he was not going to put himself into a position to prove they were wrong by trying the medium also. He then proceeded to try to try to sell me another mask. Stay away from these guys, they just put your blood pressure up.
OOPS, sorry about the rant, had to get it off my chest.
Re Breeze and sore nares, that does stop. I switched from the large I was "professionally" fitted with to medium. - I went for a recheck on the size but all he did was try the large on me then tell me they didnt leak! WOW! guess he was not going to put himself into a position to prove they were wrong by trying the medium also. He then proceeded to try to try to sell me another mask. Stay away from these guys, they just put your blood pressure up.
OOPS, sorry about the rant, had to get it off my chest.
I have used the original Comfort Lite for a year. I have experienced this problem repeatedly. I don't understand why this piece isn't anchored permanently into the plastic to prevent this problem from happening. It is prone to occurring during the night when I turn a bit too far on my side and put pressure on this piece, or when I try to bend it upward to press more tightly into my nostrils.
- DreamStalker
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- Location: Nowhere & Everywhere At Once
I don't have a CL2 although I would like to try it out at some point.
Having said that, if the metal insert does not need to be removed for anything in the first place ... perhaps it can be super-glued in place?
EDIT: OK OK ... super-glue may be a bad choice. Surely, there is a "safe" glue available that will work ... heck, bubble gum might even work.
- roberto
Having said that, if the metal insert does not need to be removed for anything in the first place ... perhaps it can be super-glued in place?
EDIT: OK OK ... super-glue may be a bad choice. Surely, there is a "safe" glue available that will work ... heck, bubble gum might even work.
- roberto
Last edited by DreamStalker on Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:20 am, edited 2 times in total.
President-pretender, J. Biden, said "the DNC has built the largest voter fraud organization in US history". Too bad they didn’t build the smartest voter fraud organization and got caught.
I have had this happen once. Fortunately I just shoved it back in and it has not happened again since. In the beginning with this mask I found I had the tendency to keep cranking down the vertical adjustment in the attempt to get a firmer seal. I eventually found that to be a mistake - I now have it like wolf above, vertical adjustment at around four and the headgear further up on my head with a lighter pressure on my nares at the seal. Once I found that sweet point by tweeking all of the adjustments, I hardly even feel the mask on and have a great seal throughout the night. I just love this mask and plan on getting another as a backup. --- BT
- oldgearhead
- Posts: 1243
- Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2006 9:53 am
- Location: Indy
It has happened to me many times. The tail of this piece is just not long enough to allow the user to achieve a flatter angle. However, I do think it
needs to be on the mask to stabilize the pillows. I use two bread wrapper
tyes (paper/wire kind) to add more support to the mask.
needs to be on the mask to stabilize the pillows. I use two bread wrapper
tyes (paper/wire kind) to add more support to the mask.
+ Aussie heated hose.
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People have more fun than anybody..
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People have more fun than anybody..
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Thanks, all, for the support and the tips! I guess this is something for them to correct for the CL - 3! Does anyone know the name of a glue that would be good for aluminum and plastic?? I am liking the bubble gum idea the best. I once stuck my kids kites together with gum when we were at the beach... it worked pretty well!
Regards,
AII
Regards,
AII
- birdshell
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Sun Mar 26, 2006 11:58 am
- Location: Southeast Michigan (Lower Peninsula)
Metal and plastic glue
I, too, have had repeated problems. Some of the T parts seem to pull out more easily than others. I, too, have contemplated gluing the end to the hard plastic. My guess is that the silicone part could be pulled out of the rim long enough to do so.
My "T" problem has improved thanks to the use of a length of fishing line, cleverly devised by Nighthawkeye:
Link to Fishing Line Fix for CL Interface
I have hesitated to glue, though, because the superglue fumes might be a problem. Right now, I have a square piece of my mouth tape there. It works, but isn't perfect. Bubblegum might be better, but which brand? Now we will have to start a thread called "The Best Bubblegum to Use for a Fix of the CL 2 Metal T Connection to Plastic"- -or not.
I do know of a glue, called "Hold Everything" by Bondini (it apparently was advertised on TV) that will bond plastic and metal. I found it at Wal-Mart for under $2. It also doesn't need a superclean surface, or perfectly fitted pieces. However, it is a cyanoacrylate-type of glue. Does one wish to breathe this? I know when I would try to superglue my plastic glasses frames, the fumes would bother my eyes for days.
I have used this glue on a pair of scissors with a plastic covering holding the screw. The screw has pulled out again and been lost, but the plastic cover is stuck tightly to the scissor blade. There, for what it is worth, is everything.
P.S. Old Gearhead, I'm glad to see your post on this thread. I was going to look for you since you haven't given me any grief lately!
My "T" problem has improved thanks to the use of a length of fishing line, cleverly devised by Nighthawkeye:
Link to Fishing Line Fix for CL Interface
I have hesitated to glue, though, because the superglue fumes might be a problem. Right now, I have a square piece of my mouth tape there. It works, but isn't perfect. Bubblegum might be better, but which brand? Now we will have to start a thread called "The Best Bubblegum to Use for a Fix of the CL 2 Metal T Connection to Plastic"- -or not.
I do know of a glue, called "Hold Everything" by Bondini (it apparently was advertised on TV) that will bond plastic and metal. I found it at Wal-Mart for under $2. It also doesn't need a superclean surface, or perfectly fitted pieces. However, it is a cyanoacrylate-type of glue. Does one wish to breathe this? I know when I would try to superglue my plastic glasses frames, the fumes would bother my eyes for days.
I have used this glue on a pair of scissors with a plastic covering holding the screw. The screw has pulled out again and been lost, but the plastic cover is stuck tightly to the scissor blade. There, for what it is worth, is everything.
P.S. Old Gearhead, I'm glad to see your post on this thread. I was going to look for you since you haven't given me any grief lately!
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- Location: "Green Country" Northeastern OK
The metal piece slips out of location occasionally. It happened much more frequently before I made the fishing line modification shown elsewhere on this site. The fishing line repair has been a major improvement.
I suggest seriously that folks using the CL2 interface make the fishing line mod. It facilitates getting a better seal and reduces the likelihood of the metal strip slipping out of location.
I suggest seriously that folks using the CL2 interface make the fishing line mod. It facilitates getting a better seal and reduces the likelihood of the metal strip slipping out of location.