UPS Requirements & M-Series current draw

I've been away from the board for some time, mostly due to comments (both public and private) made by some who disagree strongly (to put it mildly) over my views regarding the current Health Care politics.

As I just began year 2 on CPAP therapy and the severe weather season is upon us again here in Kansas, I decided to finally get serious about the purchase of a UPS system. My system is shown in my signature. Since the M-Series is no longer manufactured, this data might not be of any use to anyone else; it's unlikely that any new CPAP users will buy M-Series machines, but this data might at least provide a guideline to users of other machines.

The equipment used to measure the current usage was a Fluke 289 industrial logging multimeter and a Fluke i410 current clamp, both properly calibrated, recording once per second. All equipment is powered via a TrippLite 6-outlet power strip.



One thing I learned from this which I didn't know before is that the F&P HC150 cycles on and off, every few seconds (at least when first turned on when cold).

Graph showing the events listed in the above spreadsheet:



So with total current draw of around 1.5A, shopping for a UPS should be easier. It seems it's not so much about finding an affordable unit with ultra-long run time, but instead about finding a unit with decent run time, unobtrusive physical size, ability to silence alarms, how close the unit approximates true sine wave power, ease of battery replacement, and other features unrelated to run time.

I hope this info is useful to others in their search for a UPS.

UPS's aren't a good choice for back-up XPAP power, as the cost for running time is to high, and too short. A deep charge battery setup is cheaper and more efficent. Use search feature, there are pages on this subject. Jim

Thanks Jim, but I've searched the subject here until my head hurts, without what I would call objective conclusions. I would counter by saying "too high" and "too short" are subjective. Some would prefer not to have a large battery and associated cables sitting in their bedroom full-time for use during 2 or 3 outages per year that last 1-2 minutes each. For less than the cost of two good quality deep cycle batteries, I can have at least 30 minutes of run time in a package that doesn't detract from the decor or require me to wake up and change connections around in order to use. I don't think that's such a bad deal.

KSMike wrote:Some would prefer not to have a large battery and associated cables sitting in their bedroom full-time for use during 2 or 3 outages per year that last 1-2 minutes each.

Personally I would not like to have the batteries charging in my bedroom either, they outgas to some (very) small degree and I find the smell to be a real problem. Even normal UPS units will make a smell over time.... not to mention that inverters and UPS units can sometimes drive people mad with an irritating squealing noise.

I would have to think that a reasonable UPS installed somewhere in the house and cabled directly to a 'red wall socket', while being expensive, would still be somewhat close in cost to the alternative battery solutions.

I agree that this is not portable but then you can unplug the UPS and take it with you in a reasonably small and self contained package - whereas picking up a battery and associated hardware would probably be a little harder.

One other aspect of UPS practice I like is that, for my IT clients around the country, I can be told by the client that the warning indicator is blinking on the face of the UPS and they can then order themselves a new battery and it is usually a 10 minute task to talk them through changing out the battery. I know this wont work for all clients but so far even those 'frail old bookkeepers' I have as clients (and I am scared of dealing with them more than most) have been able to make this happen.

Next thing, change that 60W bulb for a CFL and you will be saving more power OR go one step further and pay around $7 for an LED 240v 'bulb' and use 1.5w - and will need a smaller UPS or it will last longer if you need to have it on all the time.

So those are my thoughts, the battery solution will work 100% for me when I jump on my bike and use my inverter while I am doing my next camping trip but for home I think a UPS would be my best option - but I am more than willing to listen to alternative options.

Tony

KSMike wrote:Thanks Jim, but I've searched the subject here until my head hurts, without what I would call objective conclusions. I would counter by saying "too high" and "too short" are subjective. Some would prefer not to have a large battery and associated cables sitting in their bedroom full-time for use during 2 or 3 outages per year that last 1-2 minutes each. For less than the cost of two good quality deep cycle batteries, I can have at least 30 minutes of run time in a package that doesn't detract from the decor or require me to wake up and change connections around in order to use. I don't think that's such a bad deal.

I'm with you if you can only want protection for a few minutes 2 or 3 times a year. Our power here is pretty stable, usually only goes out 2 or 3 times a year, but when it does a few minutes wouldn't cover the outage, the worst I've seen here was 18 hours, the avg is hours, much longer than the normal UPS can handle. Also the battery system doesn't have to be in the bedroom, My UPS is in the basement (My Cave) with the computers, I use one for protection and the house wiring has a problem that drops the power to the computers for 10 sec at a time a few times a day. (Can't troubleshoot it as it's back on too quickly.)

Deep Cell Gel batteries don't outgas like Lead Acid's do. I don't bother using my XPAP on backup, if needed I could use my Jumper/Compressor to power it for a short night if need be. Many options to choose from, you just have to find one that fits your needs and pocketbook. Jim

John created an option that was detailed here: viewtopic/t49115/Battery-Backup-Design.html

Others have posted re Black & Decker Electromate 400 - running AC it will power the ResMed units (w/out humidifier) for at least one night, and if used in conjunction with DC inverter, multiple nights. Amazon.com sells for about $110, free delivery, no tax.

I just ordered a Duracell DPP-600HD powerback jump starter that John recommended and has deeper charge than the B&D model, available from amazon.com for $132, free delivery, no tax.

Sydney Tony wrote:

KSMike wrote:Next thing, change that 60W bulb for a CFL and you will be saving more power OR go one step further and pay around $7 for an LED 240v 'bulb' and use 1.5w - and will need a smaller UPS or it will last longer if you need to have it on all the time.

Thanks Tony. I'll never get accustomed to the light produced by CFL's and am utterly unconvinced as to their economic and environmental advantages. LED, on the other hand, has great promise - I just haven't started the process of evaluating them for uses like this.

Goofproof wrote:I'm with you if you can only want protection for a few minutes 2 or 3 times a year. Our power here is pretty stable, usually only goes out 2 or 3 times a year...

Yeah Jim, ours is stable too which is part of the reason I'd prefer not to do a battery setup. Even here in tornado alley the outages in our neighborhood tend to be very short and if we have 3 in a year it's a bad year. Part of it is the fact that all our electrical utilities for several miles around are all underground.

Goofproof wrote:Many options to choose from, you just have to find one that fits your needs and pocketbook.

Exactly my thoughts. I started out thinking there would be "one ultimate solution" but am beginning to realize it's different for everyone.

dtsm wrote:...Black & Decker Electromate 400... I just ordered a Duracell DPP-600HD...

I looked into these at one time, and backed away for reasons that I can't even remember now. Which means I should probably look into them again. Thanks.

I use a PowerSource 400 to run my M-Series Pro & HC-150.

Last summer there were two thunderstorms where the power was knocked out for most of the night.....and the PowerSource 400 ran things, along with a floor fan (a Lasko 3540)

I dd get a DPP-600HD, but I haven't used it to run anything.... since I worked out that the PowerSource 400 should more than cover me for a full night...probably more.

But, I suppose I might have this obsession with PowerSource 400's....I have 4 others in my condo....

The Dreamer.

Thanks Dreamer. I like the electrical specs better on the TrippLite OmniVS series (particularly the voltage regulation), but I like the alarm setup better on that Xantrex (important when used for this purpose!).