Wasted Power by BiPap

I have measured the "Standby" power usage by my Respironics BiPap Plus Machine at 8 watts. For the individual user this is not a significant level, but it is totally unnecessary. I don't know if all Respironics machines have this "Standby" mode but it seems that a simple ON/OFF power switch would be such a simple inclusion. When this usage is scaled up by the likely several million machines in use it becomes a significant power waste. In my own case, the machine is idle for 17 hours a day; which equates to 49.7 KWH in a year .I have challenged Respironics for a reply, but was ignored. We live in an age when there is tremendous chatter about"Greenness", and I see power wasted by virtually all devices :TV, audio players, computers, etc.

Whatever became of a commonsense simple power switch?? Incidentally, I have foiled this by putting a simple ON/OFF power cord into the supply cord.


TheDuke

.

It is stupid.

If you're not using a surge protector device (and it would be a good idea to use one), that would be the most logical way to put the On/Off switch where it could be easily utilized.


Den

secret agent girl wrote:I was wondering about this. If you unplug a data-capable unit, does that mess up the data?

Even an on/off switch often not enough. TVs and many other devices continue to draw power even when "off". The only sure-fire way is to link in a real on/off switch or unplug the unit (which might cause it to lose its memory).

No. If it were the case, nobody would be able to travel with them or even move them to a different location (room).


Den

1. The current draw is to run the internal clock which is neither accurate, resettable, nor corresponds to any timezone known to man.

-or-

2. They are just doing their part to thwart Global Cooling...

I suspect that in designing these more sophisticated machines, performance takes precedence over low power consumption. Something I have noticed many times working in the broadcast industry.

Still, 8 watts is a lot of standby power for a modern microcontroller. 2 or 3 watts (factoring in power supply, etc. losses) would seem to be more reasonable. This suggests to me that the blower motor might always be turning, something I think some machines (at least for a while) do to help remove any excess humidity. Could also be that these machines have a low power factor, and a lot of inexpensive wattmeters do not measure low power factor loads accurately. Does your wattmeter measure power factor, apparent power or VAR?

Other people who post here have tried putting their machines on on-off switches, generally with good success. I would consider giving that a try.

BTW, I don't have my machine on an on-off switch.

Its hard to be a the on/off switch of a surge protector when you are as techie ignorant as I am!!! Even I could figure how to use a surge protector out. (Altho we won't go into the agony of deciding which ones to buy!!! - One for my beloved VPAP Auto and one for my 02 concentrator - Hubby can worry about the rest of them - I already had one on my 'puter & its accessories).

Slinky wrote:Its hard to be a the on/off switch of a surge protector when you are as techie ignorant as I am!!! Even I could figure how to use a surge protector out. (Altho we won't go into the agony of deciding which ones to buy!!! - One for my beloved VPAP Auto and one for my 02 concentrator - Hubby can worry about the rest of them - I already had one on my 'puter & its accessories).

I've got a couple of these that I like really well (nice long cord, too). I bought mine at Wally World. I also have numerous others of various brands and configurations.

http://www.cyberpowersystems.com/produc ... e/850.html


Den

Bless you, Den! I think I'll get that same one for my 'puter too and hubby can have the one I have on the 'puter now for whatever he wants, a TV or something.

In general, a good quality, name brand power strip is the way to go. Surge protection can be in the power strip or external. The switch should be of a toggling variety, and not the 'lock on and push to release off' variety. Better yet, the circuit breaker should be separate from the switch, and have a distinct round reset button. Better power strips are available at computer stores, and electronics parts supply houses.

The oxygen concentrators I have seen have a pretty hefty line powered AC motor in them. They don't need surge suppression nearly as much as a xPAP machine because the motor will tend to harmlessly dissipate the surges. Use the machine's switch to shut them off if you can. If you use an external switch, make sure it is of high quailty, as motor loads are hard on most switches. The newest concentrators might use more sophisticated compressors, and may need more electronic-grade surge suppression.

Being Green is great for Frogs, and Pond Scum, but not for all things. One thing the power draw does thats good is, it keeps the XPAP warmer that room air, that may help to keep moisture from backwashing into the unit, and keeps the electronics drier. Jim

As was said, all electronics need to be on a power strip for 100% shutoff. It also stops switch bounce when removing and inserting the data cards.

Ooops. Maybe I'll just let the 02 concentrator take its chances and fend for itself then. Or I wonder what my local DME provider would advise or if they would even have a clue? We can't use the E tanks w/an xPAP as I understand it. And 4 E tanks would only last about 2 nights even if we could as there is about 4 hours in an E tank at 2L, if I remember right.