Battery during power outage- need recommendation

[Sevendayslumber]

this is more along the line of what I was thinking https://www.amazon.com/AIMTOM-Portable- ... r=8-6&th=1

[SleepGeek]

Give it a go. Take notes and report back how things are going.

[palerider]

this is more along the line of what I was thinking https://www.amazon.com/AIMTOM-Portable- ... r=8-6&th=1

That will barely get you through one night *without* any heated humidification.

[Lane101]

Hi SevenDay,

I've built a modular battery back up for my Respironics CPAP using Half U1 size 20 amp hour (AH) sealed lead acid absorbed glass mat (AGM) batteries that weight roughly 12 lb. each. At 10cm of pressure one of these easily powers my CPAP for two nights of camping (roughly 5 AH per night) with power to spare for charging cell phones (safe to use up to 80% of an AGM battery's capacity or 16 out of 20AH). To run your Airsense 10 on a 12 volt DC battery you will need either the ResMed DC Converter or a 120v power Inverter since the ResMed runs on 24volts DC or 120 volts AC. The converter is available on the following link:

https://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed ... 0-machines

Note that my setup only runs my CPAP, not the humidifier. Running the humidifier will require a multiple of the battery capacity and may exceed the current capacity of the various components used in my set up. Also the ResMed converter looks like it includes a 12V socket adapter with alligator clips. Don't recommend using alligator clips as a primary connection due to the heightened risk of a short circuit on the exposed connectors.

You will also need 12volt Adapter Plug cigarette lighter type socket that can be attached to the batter with an in-line fuse on the positive terminal. My set-up uses the NOCO-GC018 with a 7.5AH fuse (reduced from the 15AH that comes with the adapter). The ResMed DC converter will plug directly into this. I place the battery in the bottom section of a plastic Harbor Freight Ammo Box and then place the box in a soft side tool bag for transport and storage.

With a converter or inverter you will likely only achieve 70 - 80 % power efficiency meaning that to deliver 5 AH per night the 6 to 7AH will be drained from the battery. Additionally your power requirements will also vary per your actual prescription pressure. If you require pressure that is much higher than 10cm a second battery may be needed (my preference for a modular approach per details below as we use this for camping) or a full U1 size, that typically has a 35AH capacity (may be fine for your needs if just used at home for power failures), can be used. With the full U1 size there are plastic battery boxes available instead of the ammo can. Full U1 size may also be preferred if you run 2 machines on one battery as a higher current draw in excess of 5% of a battery's specified capacity (e.g. 1AH for a 20AH battery) will result in less overall available battery capacity (battery spec sheets provide detailed info on this).

This type of half U1 battery runs at about $40 on Amazon with the other components (12volt adapter socket, ammo can, tool bag and electrical tape) running around $30+/-. You will also need a charger for the battery that runs from $10 to $40 depending on charge rate/features. The ResMed DC converter is the most expensive item at $70 to $80. A 120v modified sine wave inverter will run around half that cost though you need to confirm that you AirSense can run on this type of power output.

Note that you need to ensure that all exposed connections are well wrapped in electrical tape to minimize chances of an accidental electrical short.

My current set up is more complex than the above to provide lots of usage flexibility and the addition of a solar panel for longer camping trips. Just one battery is needed for a 2 night weekend camp out and with the second battery and my solar panel we camped for an entire week running my CPAP and a fan at night while also charging cell phones as needed.

Details on my battery set up and the setup of Bbergin76 (he used a 35ah battery) from an earlier post (from same thread you were provided earlier) on the following link: viewtopic/t114012/Choosing-a-Battery.ht ... &start=180 are pasted below as follows:

Lane101 wrote: ↑
Fri Jun 14, 2019 1:45 pm
Hi Bbergin 76,

The ExpertPower 12200 battery terminals work well with O-Ring adapter connectors; mine are hooked up that way. Just screw the connectors on. Note that my battery packs use o-ring connectors that are smaller than those on the Deltran (custom spliced 12 awg wire with Anderson Pole connectors on the other end) for both of my battery packs. The M5 bolts on the 1200 battery are 5mm across while the Deltran connectors are 3/8" (approx. 9.5 mm). You will need to check if a wider washer to hold the connectors securely. Once connected any exposed connections should be covered with electrical tape for added safety. Be careful when connecting wires to the battery terminal. A battery of this size can generate over 200 amps in a short circuit (even more for a full U1 size). I typically keep one terminal covered with electrical tape when making direct to battery connections. If you to the multiple battery route (one U1 and a second half-U1 size) you should by an extra Deltran SAE/O-ring connector so you don't have to deal with exposed terminals while camping.

Note, if you are referring the the Mighty Max U1 35ah battery the O-rings should also work. You may need to purchase connection hardware for this one (nuts, bolts and locknut washers). Again need to match hardware size to O-rings and battery terminals. One of my original half-U1 batteries had terminals like this.

U1 is a battery size. The Exp12200 and similar 18 - 22 amp hour batteries are often referred to as Half-U1 size. Note that while the Exp12200 specifications allow charging at up to 6 amps per hour it is more optimal to keep the charging rate below 4 amps/hour (referred to as .2 of Capacity or "C"). Would recommend the 3 amp charger as ideal if you also have a separate U1 battery.

Absolutely stick with AGM batteries for camping. They are the safest lead-acid type battery and the only type that does not vent gasses unless damaged or overcharged. Both Gel and flooded lead-acid require venting (source Battery University @ batteryuniversity.com). AGM is the only type I would use indoors or in a tent. Also, you can use 80% of an AGM battery's capacity versus a max of 50% of a flooded batter without damaging it.

P.S. Regarding Goofproof's comment. It is correct, we are seeking to protect both the device and the wiring from a current overload and one size often doesn't fit all. In your specific case, for charging with a Deltran Battery Tender (3 amp or less) and use of a Dreamstation, a 7.5 amp should protect both the CPAP, charger and wires given that it is the specified/provided fuse for the Deltran and below the 8 amps provided in the Dreamstation DC connector.

Good example of Goofproof's point is my set up (more complex with an inverter and solar power) where I use a 15 amp fuse on a 12 awg main battery connector with lower capacity fuses for the various items (bespoke Anderson pole connector for each that plugs into the main battery cable) in my modular system including:

- 5 amp fuse for my CPAP machines - 18 awg with barrel connector for CPAP with Anderson connectors for battery connection
- 7.5 amp fuse for the 3 amp Deltran charger - use the connector provided by Deltran, cut off the O-rings and spliced on the Anderson connectors
- 5 amp fuse for the solar panel wire (cable connects to solar charge controller)
- 7.5 amp fuse on my NOCO cigarette lighter socket (use to charge phones with a USB charger in the socket and to run our air mattress inflater)
- no additional fuse for the 400 watt inverter - 15 amp main cable fuse is more than sufficient as I want to cap the power draw to 180 watts given the size of my batteries. Also the inverter has its own fuses.

My system evolved over time. Started with just an 18 awg barrel connector cable for my CPAP with just a 5 amp fuse and one battery. Bought a second to camp more that 2 -3 nights. Later added an inverter that also had USB chargers that required the separate 12 awg cable to support it. Added the solar panel last year to support a week long camping trip to Assateague Island. Converted to Anderson pole connectors with the addition of the solar panel and also added the NOCO cigarette lighter adapter at the same time. Sounds like you don't require this level of complexity for your needs.

Hi Lane,

Sorry to resurrect on old post here. I've built my 35Ah battery for my wife's CPAP and its working well in testing, now I am looking to build a smaller 20Ah battery to be able to recharge electronics and blow up our air mattresses. This is what I am looking at and was wondering of your input.

Battery: https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1 ... way&sr=8-1
Connector: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Adapt ... ive&sr=1-1 Should I look to use a smaller fuse than the 15A that it comes with?
Inverter: https://www.amazon.com/Ampeak-400W-Powe ... way&sr=8-3 to be able to connect various electronics for charging.

Could it really be that simple, or am I missing something? I would of course get a box to be able to contain the battery.


Hi Bbergin76,

The three components you list are exactly the items currently in our modular system and with the caveats below they have all worked well since they were acquired as upgrades/replacements for our 2018 Assateague Island trip mentioned earlier. Comments as follows:

1) ExpertPower 12200 20ah battery: Bought our first one last year right before our Assateague trip and it has worked well. Arrived fully charged reading 13.1 volts with no load and, based on usage, appears to deliver stated amp hour capacity. Second replacement battery delivered this year arrived in similar condition and did well in an initial load test. Based on experience and generally good reviews would recommend the battery. Also at $40 on Amazon it's priced well. One year after purchase the first battery is still doing well. Note that in the off-season we top off the charge every couple of months and additionally cycle the batteries (use only 20% of capacity) if not used for 4 months to prevent sulfation. We have 5 other lower capacity (7 and 8 amp hour) ExpertPower batteries as replacements for our PC UPS and Verizon Fios backup that have also worked well - so far for up to 2 and a half years. Good ratings on Amazon also support this.

2) NOCO GC018: This has worked will for us as noted earlier. Note that the 15 amp fuse that comes with it is too high for 16 awg wire and needs to be replaced with a lower capacity fuse. See the June 16th review by sandygee for this item (full disclosure that the review is mine and this is our family account under my wife's online name). When we stripped the wires to attach the Anderson connectors we discovered something other than 100% copper wire (see review pictures). Normally a 10 amp fuse would be fine for 16awg wire, we used a 7.5 amp fuse in case this is aluminum. We currently use this adapter to inflate our air mattresses (12 volt inflater that does not require an inverter) and charge phones (with a 5 volt cigarette lighter charger) when camping.

3) Ampeak 400watt inverter: Has performed well for us since purchased last year. Overkill with a 20 ah battery but we wanted the extra capacity should we want to use in on our auto in an emergency. You really don't want to draw more than 5 amps (60 watts) from a 20 ah (battery will last about 3 hours before dropping below 11 volts when new). At 12 amps (144 watts) the battery will only last an hour.

If you plan on staying at or below 5 amps you may be able to use the cigarette lighter adapter that comes with the Ampeak and the NOCO GC018 with a 7.5 amp fuse. Per CapnLoki keep some spares in case a power spike blows the fuse. With 50% extra fuse capacity there should be minimal nuisance fuse blows. Test it out with your planned power loads to ensure that there isn't an excessive voltage drop or initial voltage spike that blows your NOCO fuse.

We converted to 12 awg wire from our battery to minimize DC voltage drop in addition to providing a 20 amp current capacity for additional safety margin with a 15 amp fuse. When we first build our camping power supplies years back we found that our prior inverter (Harbor Freight) would kick in with a low voltage alarm with smaller 18 gauge wire/barrel connectors that ran my CPAP and could theoretically handle the amps required for the desired inverter use. Have had no issues with the 12 gauge auto zip wire we currently use direct to the inverter.

One additional note, we replaced the two 35 amp fuses that come installed in the Ampeak with 25 amp fuses for better protection in emergency use as we don't expect to use full unit capacity. With our battery pack the 15 amp fuse on wire that connects to the Ampeak will blow long before the inverter fuses ever come into play. See my June 4th, 2018 review for the Ampeak on Amazon under sandygee for additional perspective. Only complaint was that the fan kicks in at lower power usage than expected (60 watt test). Still much better than the older inverter this replaced. Fan did not kick in for our AC current ZZZPap machine, that I use at home, when tested. The externally mounted user replaceable fuses are a big plus for this unit as many inverters at this price point have fuses that are soldered in and not user replaceable.

You have a variety of options to house a battery of this size. We place our half-U1 size 20ah batteries in the bottom half of an inexpensive plastic ammo box or Rubbermaid 3.25"x 9"X 2" vinyl/rubber drawer organizer that in turn is placed in a 12 inch tool bag that is easy to carry. Wanted something hard protecting the battery base and bag has space for a charger and or inverter plus cables. Within the bag all metal connections are covered with heat shrink tubing and/or electrical tape so there is nothing exposed to an accidental short circuit. Just unzip the bag and pull out the battery wire. We use this bag for one of our 20ah batteries:
https://www.amazon.com/Husky-Inch-Contr ... 0778&psc=1
Can often find it at Home Depot for less. The draw organizer in one battery pack is from Target and the ammo box bottom from Harbor Freight (typically $3.99 with coupon). Just remove the top. Other types of soft side bags/small backpack may work. In the case of your 35 ah battery just get a U1 battery box.

Got the idea for a soft side container from the now discontinued Respironics Battery Pack. See the link below at cpap.com that has a picture of the opened pack with a taped lead acid agm battery:
https://www.cpap.com/productpage/respir ... -cable-kit
By the way, the detailed specs on this show a 14.4 amp hour capacity - 80% of an 18 amp hour Half-U1 size battery that was likely used. Validated a lot of my design on these specs including the fuses. This uses a main 15 amp fuse on the battery with either a 3, 5 or 7 amp fuse on the CPAP machine cord based on specific device specifications.


Feel free to reach out with any additional questions.

[Sevendayslumber]

I've got a pretty liberal FSA and already have a letter of medical necessity in place. both machines are AirSense 10s. If what I get only powers one of the machines, hubby will have to fend for himself. :p

what if he murders you in your sleep and steals your battery?

I guess he gets a second machine to use in his recliner.

[zonker]

I've got a pretty liberal FSA and already have a letter of medical necessity in place. both machines are AirSense 10s. If what I get only powers one of the machines, hubby will have to fend for himself. :p

what if he murders you in your sleep and steals your battery?

I guess he gets a second machine to use in his recliner.