PR System One Heated Humidifier Wattage

[Chilibit]

I see lots of threads about humidifier issues.

Mine seems to function nominally but to confirm things I measured wattage. Without the humidifier attached the PR1 consumption was 37 watts. With it attached and functioning it measured 63 on the low side to 85 on the high side. I assume based on whether the plate was asking for a temperature increase. The plate is heating. The transformer is clearly embossed as rated for 60 watts. My conclusion is that it is routinely operating outside the design spec. Phillips likely did not undershoot this intentionally so I wonder if the humidifier unit is out of spec. I think my measurements are accurate. I moved the transformer to a fireproof surface. If the power supply is struggling, I wonder if this might not trigger a host of issues. Or maybe I missed the obvious. I do that sometimes.

I am a neophyte user with PR1 model 560 and the humidifier (I do not have the heated hose which does come with an 80 watt transformer).

As an aside, the firmware is 3.03.

[STL Mark]

Measured amperage at the supply side at 120 volts or at the machine side at 12 volts to determine wattage?

- - - -

If you have a 60 series humidifier with the heated hose feature installed (the top plate of humidifier would have an electrical connection next to the hose port) it should have been provided to you with the 80 watt power supply and not the 60 watt.

[Chilibit]

STL Mark,

I do not have a heated hose that I know of. The main supply hose is clear with a white (wire?) coil along its length. On the side the PR1 there is an electrical connection with six pins just below the air exit. I am beginning to think that the humidifier unit is the heated hose model but, just as you said, the power supply is the wrong one. I thought everything came in a single cardboard box. There would be an electrical connection if the tank were heated but not the hose. No? Or is that not a standard configuration?

Thank you for the response. I think I will disable the humidifier until I resolve this with the DME.

[pbriggs]

my 60 series uses the 80 watt power supply. Looking in the book that the humidifier came with it says:
AC power consumption (with 60w power supply): 100-240 VAC, 50/60 hz, 2.1 A
AC power consumption (with 80w power supply): 100-240 VAC, 50/60 hz, 2.0 A
DC power consumption: 12 VDC, 6,67 A

It does not specify when yo use the 60 or the 80 ...

[STL Mark]

STL Mark,

I do not have a heated hose that I know of. The main supply hose is clear with a white (wire?) coil along its length. On the side the PR1 there is an electrical connection with six pins just below the air exit. I am beginning to think that the humidifier unit is the heated hose model but, just as you said, the power supply is the wrong one. I thought everything came in a single cardboard box. There would be an electrical connection if the tank were heated but not the hose. No? Or is that not a standard configuration?

Thank you for the response. I think I will disable the humidifier until I resolve this with the DME.

The correct power supply for your device and humidifier can be determined by the lid on the humidifier. Specifically where the hose attaches at the center of the lid. In the first example below, no electrical connection exists for a heated hose. So a 60 watt power supply is appropriate. (Click pictures for larger view)

In the next example, an electrical connection exists. And an 80 watt power supply should be used.

[chunkyfrog]

Does the cord or device feel hot or smell scorchy?
I know that's not very scientific, but it's a fair indicator if something is wrong.

[DiverCTHunter]

On the side the PR1 there is an electrical connection with six pins just below the air exit.

Thank you for the response. I think I will disable the humidifier until I resolve this with the DME.

I just double-checked my 50-series with the 60 watt supply and it's only got a 4-pin connector on the humidifier. Based on this, I'm pretty sure that the DME gave you the 60-series w/o the heated-hose and lid.

As STL Mark said, are you measuring amperage at the AC mains side or at the 12VDC side? The calculated wattage will be slightly higher on the mains side because of adapter inefficiency.

The only 100% accurate way to measure the amperage draw would be to put an ammeter in series between the PRS1 and the adapter.

[Chilibit]

Looking at the hose connections, mine clearly does not have the electrical connector which in hindsight I should have scoped out on my own. It does have the six pin connector between the boxes and all six are populated.

I did measure between the mains and the PR1. But I reset my baseline by 1.37 watts to account for the transformer as that is the draw without being plugged into the PR1. That might be faulty logic on my part, but it was all I have.

I did not notice a humidifier top being exchanged but, like many I suspect, I was in a fog of denial during most of the delivery episode. The extra 20 watts must be for the heated hose itself.

I don't suppose anyone else has measured power consumption in the non-heated hose configuration. I would assume that the 60 watt rating is for output and it would be reasonable for the input power to exceed that. Perhaps I have raised my hand in error. Hardly the first impression I might want to make.

c'est la vie

[sawinglogz]

The Series 60 are clever enough to detect the wrong power supply and will lock out the heated tubing if you're using the 60W power supply. (My DME accidentally forgot to send me the 80W when they sent me the heated tube humidifier.)

If you have the 60W supply with the heated tube humidifier, and use a non-heated tube, there's no issue. As soon as you attach a heated tube, the humidifier light blinks for about 30 seconds. If you look in the settings page, it will report your tube type as 15H (and locked, since it's auto-detected). Then if you look down at the humidification options, it will show "Use heated tube humidification" as OFF and locked.

Once you plug in the 80W supply, it will let you turn on the heated tube.

[Chilibit]

sawinglogz,

Understandable implementation. Their experience shows. Thanks for the info.

Ciao

[Fizzled]

On the side the PR1 there is an electrical connection with six pins just below the air exit.

Thank you for the response. I think I will disable the humidifier until I resolve this with the DME.

I just double-checked my 50-series with the 60 watt supply and it's only got a 4-pin connector on the humidifier. Based on this, I'm pretty sure that the DME gave you the 60-series w/o the heated-hose and lid.

As STL Mark said, are you measuring amperage at the AC mains side or at the 12VDC side? The calculated wattage will be slightly higher on the mains side because of adapter inefficiency.

The only 100% accurate way to measure the amperage draw would be to put an ammeter in series between the PRS1 and the adapter.

Inductive (clamp) ammeters are pretty accurate.

[SeekSleep]

You didn't mention how you are measuring the wattage. As mentioned, the rating is for output. The input wattage will be higher and won't necessarily match the VA value because of the power factor and of course power loss of the ac to dc conversion process. I've seen the brick type power supplies having a power factor as low as 0.6 and efficiencies of only 80 percent or so, although most seem to be better efficiency wise.

Are you using something like a Kill-A Watt to measure the wattage, or a meter and calculating it from you current/voltage readings?

[Chilibit]

I used Kill-a-watt. I don't have a clamp-on ammeter except for a Klein but it only does AC. No help. I guess I could have done it with some alligators and probes but I did not expect the difference to be so substantial. I have added a couple of things to my lore book in the process. Thanks.

[SeekSleep]

I used Kill-a-watt. I don't have a clamp-on ammeter except for a Klein but it only does AC. No help. I guess I could have done it with some alligators and probes but I did not expect the difference to be so substantial. I have added a couple of things to my lore book in the process. Thanks.

Interesting results. Since you're not basing the wattage on amperage based calculations, it eliminates power factor possibilities. As I recall, the Kill-a-Watt wattage readouts account for the power factor, and even have a power factor read out. On the surface, it appears that the power supply isn't very efficient, which I find surprising. Without a good measurement of the output voltage and current you can't really be sure of what's going on. I just traded in my System one Bipap on a S9 Vpap adapt or I'd go measure it and see what was going on. Somewhat strange.