crowded bed table
crowded bed table
Wasn't someone designing a bed table for all their xpap needs, or was it a headboard?? I just got a Sunrise clock to help me wake during the dark mornings til the sun comes round again in spring. I set it up tonight, and find my xpap will no longer fit safely on the bed table. I tend to thrash and knock things about when I sleep. I have on several occasions disconnected the hose from both machine and mask, I can't think how I managed to sleep through all that...
anyway, I am going to have to figure out how to get some more space, I don't want the xpap near the floor for dust and cat hair reasons (plus I need to be able to reach it easily so I can put it back together in the night) , and the Sunrise needs to be at pillow level for best results.
If the headboard or table design was a success, shere the results please and thankyou.
Cathy
Hating xpap a little less as each week passes.
anyway, I am going to have to figure out how to get some more space, I don't want the xpap near the floor for dust and cat hair reasons (plus I need to be able to reach it easily so I can put it back together in the night) , and the Sunrise needs to be at pillow level for best results.
If the headboard or table design was a success, shere the results please and thankyou.
Cathy
Hating xpap a little less as each week passes.
On cpap May 2005 pressure 13
on bipap February 2008
current machine: Resp BiPap Auto/Biflex
max I:25 Min E: 8 (no really 9 shh)
former maching polaris EX (boat anchor)
masks:
Sleepnet IQ w/ now extinct holey cap headgear
Fisher Paykel Opus
on bipap February 2008
current machine: Resp BiPap Auto/Biflex
max I:25 Min E: 8 (no really 9 shh)
former maching polaris EX (boat anchor)
masks:
Sleepnet IQ w/ now extinct holey cap headgear
Fisher Paykel Opus
I went to Home Depot and bought a fairly inexpensive small woodworking clamp. I put the clamp at the top of my headboard and then used a small strip of velcro to tie my hose to the clamp. Works like a charm and is not too obtrusive. You can easily adjust the right amount of hose that hangs down, and it is out of your way. You might need to get a 10' hose though since a 6' one probably will not reach.
Good luck,
BP
Good luck,
BP
I just bought and built a "MALM" bed table from IKEA. My 420E and humidifier fit perfectly in the bottom drawer. At night I pull out the drawer, plug in hose and electric cables, and I'm all set. Mornings I unplug hose and cables, take out the humidifier tank, put the unplugged cables in the drawer and and push the drawer back in.
Chest with two drawers
O.
Chest with two drawers
O.
_________________
Mask: AirFit™ P10 Nasal Pillow CPAP Mask with Headgear |
Additional Comments: Machine: Resmed AirSense10 for Her with Climateline heated hose ; alternating masks. |
I've got the same problem as Cathy.ozij wrote:I just bought and built a "MALM" bed table from IKEA. My 420E and humidifier fit perfectly in the bottom drawer. At night I pull out the drawer, plug in hose and electric cables, and I'm all set. Mornings I unplug hose and cables, take out the humidifier tank, put the unplugged cables in the drawer and and push the drawer back in.
Chest with two drawers
O.
But as much as I LOVE IKEA furniture, I don't think that would do it for me.
I'm, well, ..... I'm lazy. I admit it. I don't want anything that makes me plug and unplug stuff every day if I don't have to. It's more than enough for me to remember to turn the blasted, I mean nice, thing on and off every day and to add water to my humidfier. Don't make me do anything more than I absolutely have to. lol
I like my end tables, because they're nice solid cherry. But it's a precarious situation. Most everything fits, barely. But I sure would love to be able to put a drinking glass and a book there. Maybe even a pretty flower? Hmmm. Maybe what I need is some sort of wider bedside table, with a couple of shelves and open ended on the side so I can reach in to turn things off and on, and with space to hold all of the electrical cords. Hmmm. Maybe IKEA has something like that. .... Time to shop.
Linda
sounds just right, I'll look into it, we just got a flyer from them the other day. I call that good timing.
Thanks!
editing to say...whoops this reply was to the Malm bed table thing, I should be more careful in my replies...
Thanks!
editing to say...whoops this reply was to the Malm bed table thing, I should be more careful in my replies...
Last edited by 3isles on Sat Dec 31, 2005 9:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I know what you mean, but I finally decided I felt better about having the stuff in a drawer - less dust to fall on it druing the day (and believe me, our climate is dusty) and giving the bedroom a slightly less clinical look.LDuyer wrote:I admit it. I don't want anything that makes me plug and unplug stuff every day if I don't have to
Unpugging the electricity is no fun - but I haven't yet figured out a way of leading the electric cables into the drawer safely. Unlike a shelf, the drawer moves - which means pushing and pulling the cables' slack when closing and opnening it.
O.
_________________
Mask: AirFit™ P10 Nasal Pillow CPAP Mask with Headgear |
Additional Comments: Machine: Resmed AirSense10 for Her with Climateline heated hose ; alternating masks. |
Here's a thought. If you have a lamp on the bedside table you can get rid of it and put in a hanging pendant ceiling light or baby chandelier-type hanging light. The light can be put in exactly over the nightstand so your lighting will not change one iota.
I've done this on both sides of my bed and now my bedside tables have a lot more space. Plus the lights look nice and the tables look less cluttered.
I've done this on both sides of my bed and now my bedside tables have a lot more space. Plus the lights look nice and the tables look less cluttered.
How about drilling some holes in the back of the drawer to pass the cables, and give enough "service loop" to allow the drawers to slide in and out without pinching or kinking the cables? Then you would just have to unplug the hose, which is a good thing to avoid moisture sitting in the hose all day anyway.ozij wrote:I know what you mean, but I finally decided I felt better about having the stuff in a drawer - less dust to fall on it druing the day (and believe me, our climate is dusty) and giving the bedroom a slightly less clinical look.LDuyer wrote:I admit it. I don't want anything that makes me plug and unplug stuff every day if I don't have to
Unpugging the electricity is no fun - but I haven't yet figured out a way of leading the electric cables into the drawer safely. Unlike a shelf, the drawer moves - which means pushing and pulling the cables' slack when closing and opnening it.
O.
Remember:
What you read above is only one data point based on one person's opinion.
I am not a doctor, nor do I even play one on TV.
Your mileage may vary.
Follow ANY advice or opinions at your own risk.
Not everything you read is true.
What you read above is only one data point based on one person's opinion.
I am not a doctor, nor do I even play one on TV.
Your mileage may vary.
Follow ANY advice or opinions at your own risk.
Not everything you read is true.
ok, lets see,
re the clamp, I already use a hair thing on the bed post for the hose, but thanks guest for the clamp idea, it might be just that much more sturdy and keep me from pulling the thing apart in my sleep.
and Linda I am pretty lazy too, but if the machine and hose and stuff would fit in the drawer, I think I could manage it, I like the idea of keeping the dust off. our house is old and the dust bunnies seem to breed like their namesakes. A larger bed table would be nice, but actually a smaller xpap would be nicer, or if it had a remote control so it could be further away, (longer hose clamped...) and I could just leave the tiny remote on the bed table next to the Sunrise clock and the clock radio (must have for the weather report and for school cancellations) and of course the water bottle.
Thanks guest (other guest?) I don't have a separate lamp on my table, but the sunrise clock is a lamp with a glass top, it lights slowly over 30 minutes to simulate sunrise. Vastly improves my winter mood.
Snork 1, If I do get the table with drawer, I will see if an electrical conduit can be put in the back. good idea.
isn't xpap fun??? So many people forced to come up with so many creative ideas to make all this work.
Thanks all
Cathy
re the clamp, I already use a hair thing on the bed post for the hose, but thanks guest for the clamp idea, it might be just that much more sturdy and keep me from pulling the thing apart in my sleep.
and Linda I am pretty lazy too, but if the machine and hose and stuff would fit in the drawer, I think I could manage it, I like the idea of keeping the dust off. our house is old and the dust bunnies seem to breed like their namesakes. A larger bed table would be nice, but actually a smaller xpap would be nicer, or if it had a remote control so it could be further away, (longer hose clamped...) and I could just leave the tiny remote on the bed table next to the Sunrise clock and the clock radio (must have for the weather report and for school cancellations) and of course the water bottle.
Thanks guest (other guest?) I don't have a separate lamp on my table, but the sunrise clock is a lamp with a glass top, it lights slowly over 30 minutes to simulate sunrise. Vastly improves my winter mood.
Snork 1, If I do get the table with drawer, I will see if an electrical conduit can be put in the back. good idea.
isn't xpap fun??? So many people forced to come up with so many creative ideas to make all this work.
Thanks all
Cathy
On cpap May 2005 pressure 13
on bipap February 2008
current machine: Resp BiPap Auto/Biflex
max I:25 Min E: 8 (no really 9 shh)
former maching polaris EX (boat anchor)
masks:
Sleepnet IQ w/ now extinct holey cap headgear
Fisher Paykel Opus
on bipap February 2008
current machine: Resp BiPap Auto/Biflex
max I:25 Min E: 8 (no really 9 shh)
former maching polaris EX (boat anchor)
masks:
Sleepnet IQ w/ now extinct holey cap headgear
Fisher Paykel Opus
Hi:
This is what I did and it works really well. I moved my nightstand 12 inches from my bed, still close enough to reach lamp, clock, tv remote...etc. Then I built a small table 12 in wide by 18 in high. Nothing fancy just 1x12 shelving board nailed together 2 vertical sides and top then I covered it with a towel or you could use a piece of cloth your color preference, wedge it between the bed and nightstand...nice and sturdy. My machine fits perfect and it's right there by your side.
Happy New Year
Debbie
This is what I did and it works really well. I moved my nightstand 12 inches from my bed, still close enough to reach lamp, clock, tv remote...etc. Then I built a small table 12 in wide by 18 in high. Nothing fancy just 1x12 shelving board nailed together 2 vertical sides and top then I covered it with a towel or you could use a piece of cloth your color preference, wedge it between the bed and nightstand...nice and sturdy. My machine fits perfect and it's right there by your side.
Happy New Year
Debbie
Thanks for chiming in, Snork.
I don't know what a "service loop" is - please PM me if you think it's obvious for native English speakers...
O.
I don't know what a "service loop" is - please PM me if you think it's obvious for native English speakers...
O.
_________________
Mask: AirFit™ P10 Nasal Pillow CPAP Mask with Headgear |
Additional Comments: Machine: Resmed AirSense10 for Her with Climateline heated hose ; alternating masks. |
service loop
Sorry for the jargon. I design stuff sorta like this for a living and forget some terms are not as obvous as I might think.ozij wrote:Thanks for chiming in, Snork.
I don't know what a "service loop" is - please PM me if you think it's obvious for native English speakers...
O.
A "service loop" is just a droopy length of the electrical cords that allows movement of doors or drawers for access to the attached electronic components for servicing, without "coming up short". Always look carefully at what happens to the wiring through the full travel of anything the device (CPAP machine in this case) is sitting on and avoid sharp bends or pinching the wires.
Basically a service loop is the difference between the length of wire you need to hook up something if you were just drawing the layout, versus reality. Many an engineer has been bit by this detail in their designs.
uh, NEVER me of course......
Remember:
What you read above is only one data point based on one person's opinion.
I am not a doctor, nor do I even play one on TV.
Your mileage may vary.
Follow ANY advice or opinions at your own risk.
Not everything you read is true.
What you read above is only one data point based on one person's opinion.
I am not a doctor, nor do I even play one on TV.
Your mileage may vary.
Follow ANY advice or opinions at your own risk.
Not everything you read is true.
- wading thru the muck!
- Posts: 2799
- Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2004 11:42 am
Re: service loop
snork1 wrote:
A "service loop" is just a droopy length of the electrical cords that allows movement of doors or drawers for access to the attached electronic components for servicing, without "coming up short".... Many an engineer has been bit by this detail in their designs.
uh, NEVER me of course......
You don't want to be caught at "the end of your rope" ...err...cord.
Sincerely,
wading thru the muck of the sleep study/DME/Insurance money pit!
wading thru the muck of the sleep study/DME/Insurance money pit!