Yet another backpacking question.

[reversemigration]

Hey y'all,

I've been on CPAP for about five months now with very good compliance/success. I have the Airsense 10 AutoSet and am looking at a two-night backpacking trip with my oldest son before he's off to college. Earlier this month I tent camped with the kids overnight on the way to my parent's house and simply did without for a night, which obviously isn't ideal. I'd like to use CPAP for those two nights and am looking at the best way to go about it. As I understand it from reading previous threads, the Poweradd Pilot Pro 32000mAh Power Bank with appropriate connections (which I need to figure out) ought to have sufficient power for two nights, particularly given that the ambient humidity ought to be more than sufficient. I'm a little leery taking my $$$ primary CPAP machine out into the Smokies, though.

Alternately, I could pick up a used CPAP from Secondwind and figure out how to use it with DC. Either way, I don't have tons of cash to throw around. It'd be nice to be able to get one of the new lightweight travel machines, but they're out of my reach. I'll just build more muscle from that extra weight. My hope is also to continue backpacking in the future, rather than just a one-off trip.

My main question is: what connection do I need between the Airsense and the Poweradd?

Secondly, would it be better to get a humidifier side cover, or just leave the chamber empty, attached, and turned off?

Lastly, has anyone had success with one of the unknown-in-advance "standard CPAP machines" from secondwind for camping/backpacking purposes? I'm skittish about paying $125 without knowing the model and then having to determine if/how/how much for DC conversion.

TIA!

[Pugsy]

would it be better to get a humidifier side cover, or just leave the chamber empty, attached, and turned off?

If I decided to use the primary machine.....
I wouldn't bother with the side plate.
I would either leave the water chamber in place and empty with humidifier set to 0 or put water in it and still set it to 0 that way you might get a little passover moisture but no power is needed either way to the humidifier heating plate.

[CapnLoki]

I've been on CPAP for about five months now with very good compliance/success. I have the Airsense 10 AutoSet and am looking at a two-night backpacking trip with my oldest son before he's off to college. Earlier this month I tent camped with the kids overnight on the way to my parent's house and simply did without for a night, which obviously isn't ideal. I'd like to use CPAP for those two nights and am looking at the best way to go about it. As I understand it from reading previous threads, the Poweradd Pilot Pro 32000mAh Power Bank with appropriate connections (which I need to figure out) ought to have sufficient power for two nights, particularly given that the ambient humidity ought to be more than sufficient. I'm a little leery taking my $$$ primary CPAP machine out into the Smokies, though.
...

Good news and bad ...
First the bad - I've come to realize that the Airsense uses a lot more power than I thought. See the recent "DC Cpap Suggestion" thread. I'm not sure the Pilot Pro will cover 2 nights. It would work with the older S9 units, or any recent Respironics (550, 560, Dreamstation). Also bad - ResMeds require a DC converter that cost $85.

The good (sort of) - You could get a Respironics 560 from SecondWind for around $350, and maybe half that on craigslist. They run on a $25 DC power cord (less on ebay). The PowerAdd is about 120 watt-hours, so the 560 should run for 2 nights at pressure 10.

Either way, the best connection is "cigarette socket" adapter. I think they can be had for the PowerAdd for under $10.

If you're car camping (not hiking in) you might consider a larger lead-acid battery that would have lots of power for not much money.

[reversemigration]

Thank you both for your time and replies! Pugsy, thanks for that confirmation - it seemed like it'd be easier and cheaper just to leave it empty and turn the humidifier off.

I appreciate the guidance, Cap'n. I was afraid that was the case with the Airsense. I've been keeping my eyes open for what's on the local craigslist, and I've seen a Respironics Remstar for $100 and a Remstar Pro for $150. The selection is a bit sparse, unfortunately.

It looks as if I'll need to give it a bit more thought and decide how much I'm willing to plunk down for a couple of nights on the trail.

The lead-acid battery route would be great for our summer road-trip camping, and something that I'll definitely keep in mind. Thanks, y'all!

[jamesbond007]

Did you try a DIY route? Samsung 18650 batteries can be bought for about $3.70 on ebay. You calculate how much current you need and the output voltage and you can build one that lasts 2 days easily for under $200. I need a battery for my week-long bike ride from SF to LA. I will be camping every night. I am looking into a solution too as carrying a bulky acid battery is not an option for me. The Airsense 10 Autoset takes a 24V input. So I figured I need 49 batteries 7 in parallel and 7 of those in series to get about 20Ah capacity. Add in a BMS from alibaba for $13 and nickel strips and solder for another $20. I am looking at about $200 but a battery that could last me for 3 nights if I turn off the humidifier. Just don't carry it with you on an airplane

[chartle]

... The Airsense 10 Autoset takes a 24V input. ....

Yes its 24 volts but it scans the power supply to make sure its not some hacked together battery.

So you would still need this.

https://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed ... hines.html

[palerider]

... The Airsense 10 Autoset takes a 24V input. ....

Yes its 24 volts but it scans the power supply to make sure its not some hacked together battery.

So you would still need this.

https://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed ... hines.html

It's a voltage on the sense pin, people have successfully faked it.

[jamesbond007]

... The Airsense 10 Autoset takes a 24V input. ....

Yes its 24 volts but it scans the power supply to make sure its not some hacked together battery.

So you would still need this.

https://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed ... hines.html

WTF? Why would they do that?

[jamesbond007]

... The Airsense 10 Autoset takes a 24V input. ....

Yes its 24 volts but it scans the power supply to make sure its not some hacked together battery.

So you would still need this.

https://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed ... hines.html

It's a voltage on the sense pin, people have successfully faked it.

I am curious. Do you have documentation somewhere in your bookmarks by any chance?

[palerider]

... The Airsense 10 Autoset takes a 24V input. ....

Yes its 24 volts but it scans the power supply to make sure its not some hacked together battery.

So you would still need this.

https://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed ... hines.html

It's a voltage on the sense pin, people have successfully faked it.

I am curious. Do you have documentation somewhere in your bookmarks by any chance?

I don't, I'd have to dig it out of the forum here.

[chartle]

... The Airsense 10 Autoset takes a 24V input. ....

Yes its 24 volts but it scans the power supply to make sure its not some hacked together battery.

So you would still need this.

https://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed ... hines.html

It's a voltage on the sense pin, people have successfully faked it.

I've seen someone that bought a used power brick and hacked it. I swear I saw a schematic on the power brick. But its something like 3.3 volts somehow read by the unit.

And as to why, its so you don't use an after market power brick. It may be more then money. Anything that,s a medical device I think has to meet very high UL certifications.

[chartle]

... The Airsense 10 Autoset takes a 24V input. ....

Yes its 24 volts but it scans the power supply to make sure its not some hacked together battery.

So you would still need this.

https://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed ... hines.html

It's a voltage on the sense pin, people have successfully faked it.

I am curious. Do you have documentation somewhere in your bookmarks by any chance?

Maybe here?

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=112025&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=60


But don't 12 volt batteries give out up to 14+ volts fully charged and when they say 24 volts for the Airsence do they mean 24 regulated volts.

[Goofproof]

... The Airsense 10 Autoset takes a 24V input. ....

Yes its 24 volts but it scans the power supply to make sure its not some hacked together battery.

So you would still need this.

https://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed ... hines.html

It's a voltage on the sense pin, people have successfully faked it.

I am curious. Do you have documentation somewhere in your bookmarks by any chance?

Maybe here?

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=112025&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=60


But don't 12 volt batteries give out up to 14+ volts fully charged and when they say 24 volts for the Airsence do they mean 24 regulated volts.

Not really, each type of battery has it's own rating range of voltage, lead acid is 2.1 volts per cell or 12.6 volts for 6 cells in series. It also matter from the strength of the acid which needs to be adjusted by operating temp conditions. All types of batteries have their own rules. Jim

Most electronics are rated + or- 10% of rated voltage.

[palerider]

And as to why, its so you don't use an after market power brick. It may be more then money. Anything that,s a medical device I think has to meet very high UL certifications.

Actually, according to the patent, it's so that the machine knows what kind of power supply it's got, AC wall (and how big), resmed battery, or the dc supply.

Presumably so that if you're using a low wattage supply, it won't turn on the humidifier and hose.

There are aftermarket dc power supplies available.

[palerider]

Maybe here?

Nah, the verbatim guy was an idiot. Someone else posted one not long ago that he said worked... using a 12 to 24v boost converter and a few other things.

But don't 12 volt batteries give out up to 14+ volts fully charged and when they say 24 volts for the Airsence do they mean 24 regulated volts.

12.6 is considered 'full charge', 14 something is usual charging voltage.

The Resmed converter (and most boost converters) don't really care what they're fed, within limits, the resmed has been documented to work on 12, 24, and in between voltages.