Cautions and question re new PB 420E

Just got a GoodKnight 420E, replacing my CPAP Remstar after 2 years.

First caution: My 420E came with the humidification module. The APAP connects to the H20 container with a small tubuler gasket. On my unit, no matter how the gasket was oriented or pressed into place, it allowed a serious leak. I ended up using white bandage tape around the part of the H20 container which connects to the gasket to produce only a reasonably small leak.

Second caution: The heater element on the humidifier has an on/off switch at the back and an LED light at the front. In a brilliant design move, the heater runs for a fixed 10 hours when first switched on, then sits there with the light on but the heater off until you toggle the switch Off/On again to restart it. This means you can easily assume the heater is on based on the LED, when in fact it is off. Duh. If they weren't clever enough to build the heater to know when the APAP is on or off, they could at least have had the light go off after 10 hours... Again, duh.

The question: 420E was set by an RT to APAP mode with a start flow rate of 7.5, below my titration flow of 9, with a high of 14 and a low of 6. I don't have the Silverlining software yet, so subjectively speaking, I'm not feeling as good as I did before with the CPAP after a week of use.

My concern is that the APAP is just sitting at 7.5 flow, which isn't high enough per 3 sleep studies. Is there any way to, while awake, test the 420E to confirm it correctly identifies an "event" and responds as needed?

Yes, the little sensor tubing is connected correctly to the APAP, and no it isn't blocked at the mask end, and yes, my full face mask fits well with minimal leaks.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

James

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CPAPopedia Keywords Contained In This Post (Click For Definition): 420E, humidifier, tubing, Titration, CPAP, APAP

jstclair wrote:First caution: My 420E came with the humidification module. The APAP connects to the H20 container with a small tubuler gasket. On my unit, no matter how the gasket was oriented or pressed into place, it allowed a serious leak. I ended up using white bandage tape around the part of the H20 container which connects to the gasket to produce only a reasonably small leak.

Attach the silicone coupler to the humidifier chamber first and it much less likely to leak. Learned this the hard way (lots of trial and too many errors).

Second caution: The heater element on the humidifier has an on/off switch at the back and an LED light at the front. In a brilliant design move, the heater runs for a fixed 10 hours when first switched on, then sits there with the light on but the heater off until you toggle the switch Off/On again to restart it. This means you can easily assume the heater is on based on the LED, when in fact it is off. Duh. If they weren't clever enough to build the heater to know when the APAP is on or off, they could at least have had the light go off after 10 hours... Again, duh.

Gee, after 6+ months I guess I should go back and finally read the manual. I never noticed that it did that! However I have my equipment on a surge protector power bar and when I get up I shut off the 420e then hit the master power on the bar. No problem.

The question: 420E was set by an RT to APAP mode with a start flow rate of 7.5, below my titration flow of 9, with a high of 14 and a low of 6. I don't have the Silverlining software yet, so subjectively speaking, I'm not feeling as good as I did before with the CPAP after a week of use.

What pressure were you at previously?

My concern is that the APAP is just sitting at 7.5 flow, which isn't high enough per 3 sleep studies. Is there any way to, while awake, test the 420E to confirm it correctly identifies an "event" and responds as needed?

If you find one, let me know. (Pssst ... you don't need the software to change the pressure. Search this forum and you'll find out how.)

Thanks WAFlower!

My cpap flow was 9. I sat there and watched the tech set it up, so I know how to make changes, and will try what you suggested. I'll also try putting the gasket on the chamber first.

Thanks again.

Have you turned the gasket around. The ends are different. A small groove in 1 end I believe. Take a closer look. It shouldn't leak.

:twis ted:

I agree,

Put the gasket on the tank then slide the tank to the autopap. That is the way you get a seal. Also, don't push the two competely together too hard, leave a space between that the gasket seals.

Titrator

If they weren't clever enough to build the heater to know when the APAP is on or off, they could at least have had the light go off after 10 hours... Again, duh.

When I read the manual it was very clear about "turn off the heater before you turn off the APAP."

Duh?

O.

I hit the switch on the power bar everything is plugged into to turn on and off my setup, so I didn't notice the heater issue.

I give the humidifier gasket a little tug, but leave it on the 420E. That seems to solve the gasket leak issue.

I find my 420E to be much more responive to events than my Remstar Auto....for me anyway.