CPAPtalk.com

Guest wrote:I have photos on how to repair the S8 RESMED switch
I can email them but do not know how to post them.

Privet mail me and I will post send them to you email

Too post images to the forum, you must first be a member, also if you are a member you can get private messages. Just some of many reasons to join.

After 6 months if you ask, thry will rebate half of your join fees. Jim

The funny thing is the request for photos was almost 2 months ago. Doubt it is still an issue now.

My on off switch started to break down a little over a year ago. I have a Resmed S8 Elite. From reading the different thing on the blog and doing a little research this is what I did and it fix it. I took off the blue cover to exposed the switch pad and then removed it. There are nipples at the bottom of each of the buttons that have a conductive material that spans across the 2 contacts on the circuit board completing the circuit turning the machine on or off. I went to Radio Shack they have conductive paint in a tube for $10. I put a thin layer on each nipple problem solved.

i know the original post was several years ago, but this is tuesday, april 28, 2015, and if it's worth anything to anyone, but i tried this suggestion with my s8 autoset spirit anz special edition, which i've had since july 2007, and it worked like a charm...pretty good for a almost 8 year old cpap machine...thanks.

Hmm. I wonder if this is the issue my S8 AutoSet II was having (I ended up replacing it).

I unplugged it and packed it for a trip. When I arrived, I plugged it in - the start button was faintly lit green, light on humidifier turns on - no other signs of life. I spent a while searching online for info, wish I would have found this thread. Unfortunate the thread title says eleven and not 'II' (roman numeral two). Also since the international model says spirit.. makes it hard to find, mine didn't say spirit on it but they seem to be the same machine.

Hi Guy's, thanks Fergi for the great info, took my machine to the shop tonight to put it in for repair, think it must have been the same shop as you, full of bad attitude and un-heplfullness, I walked out, came home and googled it, 20 mins later my machine is working like new again. Since I had the right tools to get the case apart, I even disassembled the machine, and gave it a good clean at the same time, without spending the $220 for a hire machine plus the ???? to carry out the repair.
Ahhhhhhh......Google is your friend!

Great information, but I wanted to add that another way to prevent your switch from wearing out is to plug it into a power strip and leave the machine set to ON. Then just use the power strip to turn the machine on and off. It's way cheaper to buy a new power strip than the expense and fuss fixing the switch, especially if you have poor vision or can't fix it yourself. Since we plug most electronics into a surge protector anyway, and they all have switches, it is a nonproblem.

SewTired wrote:Great information, but I wanted to add that another way to prevent your switch from wearing out is to plug it into a power strip and leave the machine set to ON. Then just use the power strip to turn the machine on and off. It's way cheaper to buy a new power strip than the expense and fuss fixing the switch, especially if you have poor vision or can't fix it yourself. Since we plug most electronics into a surge protector anyway, and they all have switches, it is a nonproblem.

That's a bad idea for many CPAP machines because they record your nightly therapy data after you hit the start/stop button. You might lose some of your data if you just cut the power instead of powering off with the button.

On many machines, If you turn off the power, you may have to push the start button to get it to start running anyway.

On ResMed machines, they run the fan a bit until the humidifier cools down. This may be to keep humidity from seeping back into the blower unit.

Power on/off cycles are also something of a bad thing for many pieces of electronics. The power on/off cycles can cause extra stress and shorten the lifetime if done too many times. Pulling the power is different from pushing the start/stop button.

SewTired wrote:Great information, but I wanted to add that another way to prevent your switch from wearing out is to plug it into a power strip and leave the machine set to ON. Then just use the power strip to turn the machine on and off.

As already mentioned, this is not a good idea. A quick way to cause early wear and tear on a machine that is not designed to be operated that way.

I used this info to fix a resumed vpap auto 25. thank you

jdm2857 wrote:There are aerosol contact cleaner sprays designed especially for this purpose.
You can find them at Home Depot near the canned air dusters in the electrical dept.

An old post but still interesting in a 'general knowledge base' sort of way. Yeah, I second this recommendation... much better than WD-40 (aka: fish oil). For some contacts I get good results with a regular eraser on a number two pencil. No cleaner, no nothing, just an eraser and a little elbow grease. Be gentle tho, you don't want to lift or severe a copper pad or trace. Also, most modern electronic circuit boards have anti-bounce switches to stop switch generated spikes from getting thru to the main integrated components. No need to unplug at the wall .

archangle wrote: That's a bad idea for many CPAP machines because they record your nightly therapy data after you hit the start/stop button. You might lose some of your data if you just cut the power instead of powering off with the button.

Great point!

Invaluable. Carbon tips were too decreased on on/off to work even when filed... fyi so I took the whole top off with a table knife and used the tips from the up and down switch for now as start button. Thank you.

27 Oct 2015

Worked for me! Thanks

I had to remove the Blue Plate containing all the buttons, not just the power/on/off botton. Start at the top center of the Blue Plate and use a small screw driver free the plate at the top. Then work your way to the bottom. There are three points holding he plate, one at the top center and two at the bottom.

I used WD40 first to clean only the carbon contacts (black) and then alcohol with a Q-tip to complete the cleaning and remove WD40 residue.

It works perfectly...

I've been having problems with my start/stop button for the past year. It finally got to the point where it took me 45 minutes to get it started. I was able to pop off the cover and used the up/down rubber button and it started immediately. I'm not sure which cleaning methos is best. Kind of afraid to try to file the carbon points down. Please advise.