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JB Weld has gotten me out of a lot of tight spots, broken tabs on a $200 headlight assembly, cracked panel under car dash, it might just work for this but could you tack it in place with jell Super Glue while the JB Weld dries?

JB Weld is amazing stuff IMHO. I have also used it for tons of applications over the years. People claim to have repaired cracked engine blocks with it.

JB also has a quick-setting product, which I have yet to try:
http://jbweld.net/products/jbkwik.php

That one supposedly sets in only 4 minutes and cures in just 4 hours.

Can you let us know how it goes?

Since this thread may become the reference for taking apart an S9...

Start with the H5i. Its cheaper if you break it beyond repair.
There is a single screw on the S9. Remove it and the bottom case will move slightly. There are a number of tabs that hold it on. All are accessible with a screw driver. Don't move any plastic bit more than about 1 mm (1/32 in) or so or they may break. I don't know why they use snap together, it only works when the plastic is new.

The bottom bit holds two bits of foam rubber that I would want to replace if I ever bought a used unit. (anyone have part number info on them?)

Once the outer shell is out, the circuit board has pressure sensors on it that go into places with rubber seals. Make sure all three probes go back when you put it back together. Also don't force anything.

Watch the wires to the pump. They have a nice routing that can go wrong and break a wire.

When you put it back together, put your hand over the outlet and run the mask leak test. You should not hear any airflow.

The plastic knob should pull off but based on the original issue, I would be very careful since it seems that shaft is hooked to some cheap plastic. (does anyone have the part number for that part with who makes it?)

Remember static kills electronics so don't do this at home.

6 months late to this post... it might be easier just to replace the entire rotary encoder because it actually looks broken. It might just be a derivative of an EN11, but I'm not sure...

One more reason to never, ever check your cpap!
I think day 2 of baggage handler training is
identifying and destroying expensive electrical equipment--just saying!

chunkyfrog wrote:One more reason to never, ever check your cpap!
I think day 2 of baggage handler training is
identifying and destroying expensive electrical equipment--just saying!

Yep, just got back from a trip, and didn't check my S9. The worst trauma that it got was being pushed over by people arriving later and trying to jam in their backage...still works, none the less. The case is pretty well padded, actually, but it isn't designed for getting thrown around by luggage handlers...you'd need a metal case with foam inserts (or whatever) for that.

Sorry for anyone who has the bad luck of things getting broken in transit, a real trial to go through.

Actually you can get a T-10 torque bit just about anywhere (Harbor Freight) that will take out every single screw in your ResMed S9 CPAP machine. I recommend using a wrench because one of the screws is down a deep well too narrow for the shaft of a bit-driver to fit in. The only way to truly clean a S9 and get rid of nasty smell residue like stale smoke (ug!) is to take it completely apart. You can then thoroughly soak, wash, rince and dry the soiled foam padding blocks and rubber parts. I've done it, it works. I have pictures, let me know if you need step-by-step.

[quote="TooGroggy"]Thanks for the suggestions.

Trying to open my S9 humidifier, the spring that holds the latch broke and will not stay shut,

I have a full complement of torx drivers, but what do I do with the "tabs" put a screw driver under them or something?

So, used a 2 mil hex wrench to remove the screw then realized that I can use the 2 mm wrench in place of the broken knob. Do disassembly required. It works to push and turn just like new...

Ritpkg wrote:So, used a 2 mm hex wrench to remove the screw then realized that I can use the 2 mm wrench in place of the broken knob. No disassembly required. It works to push and turn just like new...

Fixed typo

ritpkg wrote:

Ritpkg wrote:So, used a 2 mm hex wrench to remove the screw then realized that I can use the 2 mm wrench in place of the broken knob. No disassembly required. It works to push and turn just like new...

Fixed typo

Responding to an old post...Original post from 2012