OT: We have any car mechanics out there?

Wulfman wrote:Check for any cracked/broken/leaking vacuum line hoses (if it happens to have those)?

Oooh, good one, Den. I'm changing my vote to that one.

-SWS wrote:If you see any brittle or slightly cracked lines, you can liberally spray those with water----while applying target RPM to troubleshoot any vacuum leaks. If the rough-running symptom suddenly disappears with liberal water sprayed, then that line will have to be replaced.

A better way to check that is to get a propane torch (don't light it) and spray the hoses and connectors with propane gas. If there's a leak, the engine will surge when the leak sucks up some propane.

Pinch long lines closed with pliers if you can't see where they terminate.

Muffy

Check with your mechanic to see if he has checked the valve timing. If your car has a timing belt, it should be replaced approximately every 60K miles. They can jump time when worn. If your car has a timing chain, it will lengthen with wear and can lengthen enough that the chain tensioner cannot take up the slack. The new electronic ignition's can make this diagnosis difficult.

Hope this helps.

Steve

Wulfman wrote:Check for any cracked/broken/leaking vacuum line hoses (if it happens to have those)?

Oops! I'm sorry I missed your earlier comment, Den. Three votes for checking vacuum lines. Fortunately they are easy and inexpensive to check. That is unless....

Muffy wrote:A better way to check that is to get a propane torch (don't light it) and spray the hoses and connectors with propane gas. If there's a leak, the engine will surge when the leak sucks up some propane.

I just HATE when that happens. But an important find is an important find none the less.

Cygnusia wrote:... still upset that I ended up with another clunker I have to put back together...

Cygnusia - there is a Kia Sportage Forum (for more answers) - http://www.kia-forums.com/kia-sportage-forum/

Yeah, I'm a member there too... I've actually gotten more info from you guys in a day than I got from them in a week!!!

And yes, the check engine light is indeed on (since I keep forgetting to answer that question.) If I reset the system, it comes back on almost immediately... it doesn't take long to start flashing, either.

Oh, the car is burgundy with silver trim. I think that might be the underlying cause.

Cygnusia wrote:And yes, the check engine light is indeed on (since I keep forgetting to answer that question.) If I reset the system, it comes back on almost immediately... it doesn't take long to start flashing, either.

Well, if the check-engine light is on then there's almost certainly going to be a more descriptive on-board-diagnostic (OBD) code or two that you can pull.

One way or the other you need to pull that likely fault code with an ODBII reader---that is unless Kia's can send codes to the dash panel-lamp via a series of key-turns as Rebecca R mentioned earlier. Either way, pulling the code is better than guessing around IMHO.

...And since the gas tank is not original and they didn't bother to hook up fuel-level sensing correctly inside the replacement gas tank, that's the area I'd look at a little more closely. I'd inspect the fuel run between the the gas tank and fuel pump for possible air leaks. Think of drawing fluid through a straw that has just an ever-so-slight perforation: no fluid leaks outward, but fluid draw or delivery-volume suffers (under high RPM especially). And I'd also inspect any emissions-based vacuum lines near the fuel cap and neck.

There's a chance that somebody did a poor job all-around of installing that replacement gas tank.

-SWS wrote:

Cygnusia wrote:And yes, the check engine light is indeed on (since I keep forgetting to answer that question.) If I reset the system, it comes back on almost immediately... it doesn't take long to start flashing, either.

Well, if the check-engine light is on then there's almost certainly going to be a more descriptive on-board-diagnostic (OBD) code or two that you can pull.

Hope you guys n gals can handle this from here. I'm putting this Crystal Ball back in the closet.

I think you need a Resmed

Good call with the CEL/MIL, Gumby!

-SWS wrote:There's a chance that somebody did a poor job all-around of installing that replacement gas tank.

Unsurprisingly, it was a Kia dealership. There was a recall for a number of models because of gas tanks rusting out. Apparently water got into some of the welds when they were being manufactured, causing corrosion and rust.

Since it was bought after the tank was replaced, I seriously doubt I'd be able to get them to fix what they broke...

Might not even be related to the gas tank or fuel delivery circuit. Pull your ODBII code and it will tell you revealing specifics like oxygen sensor, emissions control sensor, etc.

Rent or buy a scanner if you can't drive that vehicle to a place like AutoZone where they read the code for you free as you watch (bring paper and pencil to write down any diagnostic codes). If you buy an ODBII scanner, consider getting a reader that can also store and display freeze-frame data. But a dirt-cheap code reader is better than no code reader IMHO. Bear in mind that every time you reset the check-engine light you are also erasing those ODBII codes that you need to pull.

Good luck!

-SWS wrote:One way or the other you need to pull that likely fault code with an ODBII reader---that is unless Kia's can send codes to the dash panel-lamp via a series of key-turns as Rebecca R mentioned earlier. Either way, pulling the code is better than guessing around IMHO.

lmao - Good Luck finding out what the code is.....I'm goin back to the cpap forum. It's way too foggy over here.

I checked the engine - it's still there....Don't forget to check the tire pressures!!

GumbyCT wrote:

-SWS wrote:One way or the other you need to pull that likely fault code with an ODBII reader---that is unless Kia's can send codes to the dash panel-lamp via a series of key-turns as Rebecca R mentioned earlier. Either way, pulling the code is better than guessing around IMHO.

lmao - Good Luck finding out what the code is.....I'm goin back to the cpap forum. It's way too foggy over here.

Foggy what, Mr gummy? The majority of check-engine-lights really do have associated on-board diagnostic codes.

But here's an example of pulling diagnostic codes without a reader exactly as Rebecca had mentioned:
http://jeephorizons.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=2719

I doubt Kia's can do that... Say hello to Buckwheat dammit.

Cygnusia wrote:Yeah, I'm a member there too... I've actually gotten more info from you guys in a day than I got from them in a week!!!

That's because when those guys read the questions they actually visualize Kias, not Resmeds and Respironics.

And yes, the check engine light is indeed on (since I keep forgetting to answer that question.) If I reset the system, it comes back on almost immediately... it doesn't take long to start flashing, either.

Get the answer from the car. It is trying to tell you. After you get the code from the car, you can reset that engine light by disconnecting the battery for about 5 minutes. Some mechanics/dealers like people to think you can't reset it unless they do it.

Oh, the car is burgundy with silver trim. I think that might be the underlying cause.

There's your trouble, and burgundy is terrible for showing dirt too.

I actually reset the codes on the day I WAS going to take it to the parts store, but the driving condition was so poor I had to just opt to park it and bring the code reader to it. The plan was to get it to throw a fresh set of codes for I would get a more accurate picture of what was going on.