CPAPtalk.com

WarmBodies wrote:Sorry about your problems with the Beretta. I've never shot one.

Beretta made it right ... just now my wife is not able operate the slide anymore ... so ... we helped both the S&W and Ruger economies a few months ago ... so ... no money for a new cpap machine ...

There is/was a known problem with the 50 series machines not being able to communicate with the humidifier and thus the humidifier not working properly.
Fixing the problem involved going into the blower and fixing a little connector or something.
Might be worth investigating getting the 50 series machines to work properly.

viewtopic/t102275/Fix-Respironics-Syste ... a9#p957492

Sorry...I have no idea what the issue might be with the current 60 series machine.

get a T15 screwdriver, pull the two screws from the bottom, pull the knob off, and remove the top, unplug and replug all the plugs on the board, and while you're at it, loosen the screws holding the board down, and give it a little lift and plug back down, then tighten the screws, the upper right corner screw is over the air connection from the tube to the sensors.

this may or may not fix anything, but it's quick, and free to try.

pm greyghost4 about a new machine if that one keeps giving you trouble, surprising discounts over what you'd normally pay

123.Shawn T.W. wrote:

WarmBodies wrote:Sorry about your problems with the Beretta. I've never shot one.

Beretta made it right ... just now my wife is not able operate the slide anymore ... so ... we helped both the S&W and Ruger economies a few months ago ... so ... no money for a new cpap machine ...

same problem with my Walther PPK (James Bond Gun), too weak to pull the slide back, no slide lock. need a empty clip to lock it back, afraid the slide will slip and set off a shell in the barrel.

also you have watch how you hold it, the slide will take a chunk out of your hand when it fires, fine little gun, but a child could have improved the design. Jim

Palerider, I did as you said ...



Seemed awfully dusty/dirty ... so ... I also took some compressed air and cleaned out a cloud of dust from both on top of the board, and lifted it up 1/4" and blew under there from both the front and back ...



Put it all back together ... plugged it in ... seemed OK ... put my mask on, and turned it on, works fine! (So I didn't ruin it atleast!) It has been plugged in here now for 15 minutes, and no warning message ... yet!

Time will tell, Thank you!

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Pugsy,

Thanks for the link, I'll check it out ... maybe I can save those two old 50 series ... neither one lasted too long here in the truck, this 60 series has done much better! But as you know life in a truck can be rough on stuff (driver's too!)

I'm just up the road from you in Phillipsburg now ... headed back to AZ as soon as my trl gets here ... hope you and hubby are doing well!

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The Pico has a slide lock ... I may steal it from her, since she stole my Bond Texas Defender ...

123.Shawn T.W. wrote:Palerider, I did as you said ...
Seemed awfully dusty/dirty ... so ... I also took some compressed air and cleaned out a cloud of dust from both on top of the board, and lifted it up 1/4" and blew under there from both the front and back ...
Put it all back together ... plugged it in ... seemed OK ... put my mask on, and turned it on, works fine! (So I didn't ruin it atleast!) It has been plugged in here now for 15 minutes, and no warning message ... yet!

well, here's hoping it behaves better.

the same routine wouldn't go amiss on your other PR machines.

In your own picture of the 560 in the upper-right corner, look at the screw where it says "push here" The pressure sensors are right on the top side of that board right there and in the older Model 550 they decided to not put a screw there, even though the hole and the post underneath the hole are there. On some units, including mine, the board lifts up a bit sometimes, the seals with the sensors is lost, and you get an error message and the machine going on and off. A simple self-tapping screw of the right size in that hole is enough to fix it. The other problem that some 550s had was the power connector on the left side of your picture - the one with the colored wires. Pulling that one off, checking it to make sure it's not melted and then plugging it on and off a few times will make sure it is well connected.

Thank, I'll check my othe 550's out when I have time ...

I just woke up ... used my 460 last night 8hr 12 min ... 0% Large Leak, 1.1 AHI ...

Has been plugged in since before my last post ... about 15 hours, has not put out the "service required" message, or given me any problems!

I think it is fixed!

THANK YOU!

Still working fine, no error codes!

2 nights in the truck, 2 nights at home ... plugged in 4 days ...

123.Shawn T.W. wrote:Still working fine, no error codes!

2 nights in the truck, 2 nights at home ... plugged in 4 days ...

awesome! it's always so great when something as simple as popping the top off and wiggling the connections fixes it

in case any body wonders WHY it helps... over time the posts and plugs develop a bit of corrosion (even if it's not enough to see) and the resistance goes up in the connection. at some point, with a high enough current, (like for the humidifier connection) that higher resistance will cause heat, and make the problem worse, eventually melting the plastic connector and causing the connection to fail completely. simply unplugging and replugging the connector scrapes a bit of the corrosion off, and you get a good contact again.

in quality connections, they have very specs on how tight the connections in wire and plug connections, so as to achieve a "gas tight" connection, to keep air from getting in and causeing the connection to fail. Unfortunately, respironics seem to have such specs.

its called oxidation
a pencil eraser rubbed on the contact will remove it