fisher paykel icon no power

Hi, I am also having this problem. My unit was from 2017 and just recently died-no power. I purchased a refurb model from my supplier because I am not eligible for a new unit (insurance funded) until 2021. When I got the refurb unit home I plugged it in, powered it on and saw the light flick on briefly but haven’t been able to get it powered up yet. The only thing I can think was that I left it in the car for the day while I was at work and the unit could be cold? I don’t know, could this have damaged the unit? Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks!

Take it back to your supplier it’s faulty

Hi thanks, I will take it back. I’m just kind of shocked how much bad luck I am having all of a sudden with this type of unit. I have an old backup S8 res med that I broke out last night. It works but it’s loud AF, will have to do until I can get something sorted.

NM73 wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 29, 2020 9:02 am

Hi thanks, I will take it back. I’m just kind of shocked how much bad luck I am having all of a sudden with this type of unit. I have an old backup S8 res med that I broke out last night. It works but it’s loud AF, will have to do until I can get something sorted.

The known issues with this unit are enough to avoid it at all costs at this point.

First post, hello all.

Wonderful thread, I feel tons better about my week. Why do CPAPs only fail at the beginning of vacations? Because that's the the first time they've been unplugged for, like, ever. On my last trip it took hours to come up every time we moved. Last week it never came up at all. Now I may not be able to sleep, but at least I know why.

I unscrewed the bottom plate this afternoon, and it didn't want to come off. I have that same issue when I'm replacing a taillight bulb in my car, I never know if I'm not pulling on the lamp hard enough or if I'm about to destroy it because I'm pulling at the wrong angle or there's one screw I didn't remove. So I stopped. Since I'm trying to work through the system, I'm not going to do anything that leaves visible damage... yet.

The slots on the bottom sounded like my salvation- but I couldn't find a reset button, I only managed to eject that USB stick. But I'm thrilled to be here and am looking forward to poking around and learning about what choices I really have, not just whatever the supply shop I'm steered to decides to hand me.

My FP Icon was purchased 4 years ago in 2016. Last summer it started this problem of not powering up. Now even with a hair dryer running for 30 minutes or more it won't come on. I'm in Canada and just found that these machines have a recall on them for a known power failure. Here's the link.
https://healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-a ... 9r-eng.php

I'm now due for a new CPAP, had to jump through hoops, etc, and now I'm waiting at least a week for everything to get approved (and that's assuming everyone involved isn't staying home because of Coronavirus), then I get to go to the DME that's over an hour away. But once I found I'd be getting a new one, I tore the Icon apart and hit it with the hair dryer. And got nothing.

So after responding to 5 Craigslist ads and spending half of today in the car, I'm the proud owner of a new to me ResMed S9 AutoSet. Now I've got a new toy to play with and hopefully my first good night's sleep in 3 1/2 weeks.

My ICON failed me and I believe it is a combination of things that went wrong. First off I rarely used water in my unit and that may have allowed my unit to work much longer than others. I think the moisture/heat issue is real and having some slots cut into the bottom would probably help. From all the research I did on the unit it seems a bad capacitor is the culprit on the failure of many of the units. The fact that people fill the water chamber and it sits above the circuit boards is the main design flaw in my opinion. When traveling people have the unit on it's side where a few drops may fall into the lower area of the unit causing more moisture. The other issue is that as long as the unit is plugged in the capacitor can keep it's charge but once it is unplugged the charge is slowly released from the capacitor and the unit will either not boot until it is plugged in for a long time (sometimes days) to regain it's charge or it will just never start again. I took my unit back to the supplier and I was out of warranty of course. They sold me a replacement for $250 with the trade in of my old unit. The supplier needed to deal with F&P directly though and I could not get involved in it. This was probably a year ago I did this and I should have contributed this info earlier. I hope this helps someone. I love my unit and I used it for all of 3 months before I was eligible for a new unit under my insurance and at that time they gave me a dreamstation which I like it I have been using it and I keep the ICON as a backup. I do miss the alarm clock feature and that fact that it didn't look like a cpap as much as other units. The dreamstation is much smaller for travel as I don't take the humidifier portion so for me it's overall it's a better designed machine. I have a very old Resmed Remstar that still works to this day and it a tank of a machine. I still see many of those old Remstars for sale on offerup, ebay, facebook marketplace, and letgo.

As far as the F&P ICON I suggest if you don't need to use your humidifier make sure it's turned off to avoid additional heat and NEVER NEVER fill your unit while it is still in the machine. Dry off the outside of the water container after filling and dry it completely in and out before travel.

BTW - Before I swapped mine out I found an audio electronics store that said they would look at my broken unit but they were not willing to fix it as they didn't have the ability to solder that finely. If you take the board out to solder a new capacitor it will be extremely difficult to connect all the plugs back together as they are very short and hard to access while closing it up. Maybe a computer repair place would have worked out. Most wouldn't in my area as they didn't want to work on any medical devices.

Good luck to you all.

Hi all.
First, I apologize for not checking back into the forums for anyone that had questions regarding the voltage transformer; I looked back periodically after my initial post, but then it kind of fell off my radar screen. It sounds like the tip has helped a couple of folks which is terrific! Subsequent to my posting for using the voltage transformer, I purchased a new Res-Med unit. I still have my F-P unit sitting in a box partially disassembled with the replacement triac that I purchased sitting in an envelope. One of these days I'll get around to replacing the triac to see it that solves the 120/240V voltage issue. Once I do, I'll post a follow-up with the results.

robvs wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 23, 2020 10:07 pm

I'm fixing this thing even if it kills me. My insurance just provided me with a new Resmed Airsense 10 so I have nothing to lose in taking this thing apart and replacing that Triac part that was mentioned. I'm ordering the part "TLP266J" right now and making sure I have the proper soldering supplies. I intend on involving a friend and posting a ton of pics. BTW...I miss Radio Shack for the first time in decades.

Curious if you made any headway on this or if you fried your F&P? I'm interested in trying this myself (or working with someone who can, if it requires skill beyond my capability).

trn1980 wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 12, 2020 10:12 am

robvs wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 23, 2020 10:07 pm

I'm fixing this thing even if it kills me. My insurance just provided me with a new Resmed Airsense 10 so I have nothing to lose in taking this thing apart and replacing that Triac part that was mentioned. I'm ordering the part "TLP266J" right now and making sure I have the proper soldering supplies. I intend on involving a friend and posting a ton of pics. BTW...I miss Radio Shack for the first time in decades.

Curious if you made any headway on this or if you fried your F&P? I'm interested in trying this myself (or working with someone who can, if it requires skill beyond my capability).

we may never know. robvs hasn't been here since february of this year.

Just a guess--but maybe it went badly.
My brother's expression for injuries sustained while trying to do
something beyond their ability is maggot bites.
Basically foolishness injuries.

brownboy wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 18, 2018 7:34 pm

Went to a buddy's place that has a proper lab took apart the icon. Getting the power supply board out was a pain because of the orange wires that go through the plastic. It has a connector but you can't really get it out so we cut the wire to get the board out and then spliced in some short pieces of wire so we could put it back and have more play in the wires. Definitely not made to be user serviceable! The orange wires at the top of the pic are the ones we had to extend.

By using a narrow spread heat gun we heated various components until we found the one that was sensitive and causing the problematic shutdown (i.e. power up when heated). It turned out to the Toshiba TLP161J triac. I pointed to it in the attached image. You can look it up to find the datasheet but we shorted pins 4 and 6 to disable it. It is some sort of heat protection circuit (that is now working incorrectly and shutting down the machine when it shouldn't). So bypass this at your own risk.

I haven't visited here in a long time and haven't posted even longer, but had to give a shout out to brownboy for this post. I shorted pins 4 and 6 together and this brought my Icon back to life. It stopped working last year and I had switched over to another machine. But I really liked the heated tube and have used F&P machines for 10+ years, so I decided to give it one more go.

I did not have to cut any wires. I just pulled the PCB stack as far as I could and saw the part. I just put a jumper wire across the two leads and put everything back together.

SG

So glad this helped you Sleepy_G! And that you didn't have to extend those orange wires. I needed to do that since I didn't know what part(s) were bad but it's even better that you can access that without the hassle.

I made a small edit to my original post to say which pins 4 and 6 are so someone doesn't need to open that datasheet link and figure out from there. I never got around to replacing that triac.

robvs wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 23, 2020 10:07 pm

I'm fixing this thing even if it kills me. My insurance just provided me with a new Resmed Airsense 10 so I have nothing to lose in taking this thing apart and replacing that Triac part that was mentioned. I'm ordering the part "TLP266J" right now and making sure I have the proper soldering supplies. I intend on involving a friend and posting a ton of pics. BTW...I miss Radio Shack for the first time in decades.

Were to able to replace the TLP266J. Did this then resolve the problem?