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davep700 wrote:

many have used a cooler chest to put ice in and cool the hose,

That's another interesting idea. Thanks. I don't use humidity, just water in the tank. You have a temperature setting on your machine? Didn't know about that.

If you are using water in the tank, even with the heater turned off, you'll are getting added humidity, it's called passover mode. Air flowing over water, raises the humidity. Jim

You can but a passover humidifier, with no heat involved, it has more surface area, so it will work better.

davep700 wrote:In another thread It was suggested place the filled water tank in the freezer. I might try that.

A spare tank on hand for use when you crack the first tank?

davep700 wrote:

many have used a cooler chest to put ice in and cool the hose,

That's another interesting idea. Thanks. I don't use humidity, just water in the tank. You have a temperature setting on your machine? Didn't know about that.

Water in the tank is known as passive humidity, not heated but still more than in the room air. Even that is too much for me.

We may get lots of arguments about if the CPAP units can actually cool the air. I put a thermal probe into the mask end of the hose and turned the machine on.
The temperature started to rise, peaked and started to fall-at 5 degrees drop I stopped. Now I say what could possibly make the temperature fall? Nothing changed in the system. If there was no cooling the temperature should have risen to a max level and stayed there.

if the CPAP units can actually cool the air

A CPAP machine is only capable of adding heat to the room.

PoolQ wrote:

davep700 wrote:

many have used a cooler chest to put ice in and cool the hose,

That's another interesting idea. Thanks. I don't use humidity, just water in the tank. You have a temperature setting on your machine? Didn't know about that.

Water in the tank is known as passive humidity, not heated but still more than in the room air. Even that is too much for me.

We may get lots of arguments about if the CPAP units can actually cool the air. I put a thermal probe into the mask end of the hose and turned the machine on.
The temperature started to rise, peaked and started to fall-at 5 degrees drop I stopped. Now I say what could possibly make the temperature fall? Nothing changed in the system. If there was no cooling the temperature should have risen to a max level and stayed there.

Faulty thinking, the electronics in most XPAPS is drawing power, even when off, this causes the unit to warm up, compressing air, causes the air to heat also. Air flowing over water, causes evaporation, this absorbs heat. These are the forces you are guessing about what's happening.

Even more so, the XPAP air blowing on your skin, causes a cooling effect effect from evaporation, but your exhale air flowing into the XPAP stream, is both heated by the body, and moisturized by it. As with most things, it's complicated, there are many things in life to worry about.

It comes down to if you are too hot, cool the room, if you are getting rainout, turn down the HH temp, lower the machine, so water will flow back to the tank, control mask leakage. A properly fitting FF mask, stops mouth leaking. Jim

davep700 wrote:

many have used a cooler chest to put ice in and cool the hose,

That's another interesting idea. Thanks. I don't use humidity, just water in the tank. You have a temperature setting on your machine? Didn't know about that.

I've been wondering (and I can't find in your posting) if you actually have the heated humidity turned all the way OFF.
If you actually have the HH settings turned off (passover mode), even the room air blowing over the water should help to slightly lower the temperature.
On the other hand, I also can't find where you've stated what your bedroom temperature is.


Den

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ah sorry all, but the water tank was 100% empty and DRY when I made my measurements and of course I was not testing it by putting my had in the air stream.

I was using a J-type thermocouple and a HH506A http://www.omega.com/pptst/HH506A_HH506RA.html
not nist calibrated, but close enough for what we are talking about.

Now if you do want to use your hand and have an A10 (only because that is what I have and I know what you will find) run it empty with the humidity off and temperature set below room temp, with that mask strapped to a pillow to maintain a constant pressure and air flow for a while. Then take out the tank and feel the metal on the underside of the tank. Surprise it is very cold and the machine has been running steady pressure, no water, no change in volume, and generating all the heat it can from operating and compression.

You suggesting that pap machines incorporate cooling circuits ? Where do you recharge the Freon ?

If it were me, I would turn off the heat, fill the tank with ice, and add rock salt.
But I would never do THAT. When my nose gets cold, it runs like a salamander.

Don't need Freon. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=the ... ric+cooler
these little (thin) things can heat or cool. They are low cost and do everything needed, easy to use also. I have been thinking of hooking one up as a pre-cooler by the intake for my CPAP
http://www.mpja.com/Peltier-Cooling-Ass ... 5312%20PM/
This gem and a power supply, plus a little fan on the "waste" side should work pretty well. They do take quite a few amps (0-5amps) so no little USB charger for the guy.

PoolQ wrote:plus a little fan on the "waste" side should work pretty well. They do take quite a few amps (0-5amps) so no little USB charger for the guy.

as you noted, peltiers suck up a lot of power, and that power gets dissipated as heat, so you need a large enough heat sink and fan on the hot side to get rid of those amps of power, plus the heat you pull from the cold side, because they also burn up fairly easily.

oh, and I've got a usb soda cooler here that uses a peltier

Yep, indeed and it also depends if you need to push the full 60 watts into it. My guess is it could be run pretty low just to cool a little airflow

New here. This post contains most of my issues. I've used CPAP for 20 years and have tried most nasal masks and pillows. Anyway, I feel like I'm not getting enough oxygen. Some mornings I awake with numb and tingling legs and arms. I've tried most things mentioned here.

Question: I relation to the head, where should the machine and hose be positioned? THANKS ALL; glad I found you.

catstexas wrote:New here. This post contains most of my issues. I've used CPAP for 20 years and have tried most nasal masks and pillows. Anyway, I feel like I'm not getting enough oxygen. Some mornings I awake with numb and tingling legs and arms. I've tried most things mentioned here.

Question: I relation to the head, where should the machine and hose be positioned? THANKS ALL; glad I found you.

Which specific machine (manufacturer and model) are you using? If it's data-capable, you could monitor your own therapy to see if there are clues in the data. It's possible from your description that your therapy is not optimized. Or, it could be that there are other medical issues which need to be addressed.

But, ideally, the machine should be slightly below bed level (helps lessen the sound of the machine if that's an issue), fairly close to the user (hopefully within arms length) for easy access to it.
And, hopefully, the user can route the hose as directly to the user as possible. Some like "hangers" to hold the hose, but I prefer mine coming in directly from the HH tank to under my bed covers.


Den

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catstexas wrote: I relation to the head, where should the machine and hose be positioned?

Position the machine and hose so that the hose does not pull on the mask while you are sleeping. This position varies according to individuals.

If the hose pulls on the mask, you may experience excess mask leaking and/or irritation where the mask rubs against your face.