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Sparky223 wrote:Opened the cover and this is the first thing I see.

yup, that's the classic humidifier power issue

I'd suggest pulling the board (gently) making sure that connectors to the pressure and flow sensors on the bottom of the board are good an clean and tight, and then fixing that connector, either replacing the push on connector or soldering the wire direct.

the electrical issues it causes may cause the machine to freak out and quit. certainly worth a try, eh?

I know last year when I was having some varied problems with my PR Series 50, I sent it in for repairs and the repair facility just said the manufacturer would replace it 'no questions asked' since it was under warranty. I got a brand new Series 60 (that's right, a 60 upgrade) via Fed Ex in about a week direct from PR... no problems since. After this experience I suspect that most repair facilities don't think it's worth the time poking around with the whole line of Series 50. I did hear some folks saying they got new Series 60 to replace their out-of-warranty 50's but as I recall there was an nominal but small 'up fee' involved.

If a machine is built properly, five years is about right... I know some of those early ResMeds and PRs are still going strong after ten years.

I knew I shouldn't have messed with it. Now it won't start. No more sleep for me.

Sparky223 wrote:I knew I shouldn't have messed with it. Now it won't start. No more sleep for me.

What exactly did you attempt to do when you got the case open Maybe there's an easy fix. Bypassing the burnt connector and soldering the bare wires to the correct male pins was recommended by someone. As I recall there is an online fuse on the board. Maybe check to see if you blew it out. Use an ohmmeter or possibly view it to see if there's a broken fuse strip. If you're lucky it's the type of fuse that is removable and mounted between two metal clips/retainers.

Sparky223 wrote:I knew I shouldn't have messed with it. Now it won't start. No more sleep for me.

remove the humidifier?

palerider wrote:

Sparky223 wrote:I knew I shouldn't have messed with it. Now it won't start. No more sleep for me.

remove the humidifier?

Yes, that would be step one. I agree, maybe you'll get lucky.

Sir NoddinOff wrote:

Sparky223 wrote:I knew I shouldn't have messed with it. Now it won't start. No more sleep for me.

What exactly did you attempt to do when you got the case open Maybe there's an easy fix. Bypassing the burnt connector and soldering the bare wires to the correct male pins was recommended by someone. As I recall there is an online fuse on the board. Maybe check to see if you blew it out. Use an ohmmeter or possibly view it to see if there's a broken fuse strip. If you're lucky it's the type of fuse that is removable and mounted between two metal clips/retainers.

Just cleaned the pin where the burnt connector is.

Sir NoddinOff wrote:

palerider wrote:

Sparky223 wrote:I knew I shouldn't have messed with it. Now it won't start. No more sleep for me.

remove the humidifier?

Yes, that would be step one. I agree, maybe you'll get lucky.

Why didn't I think of that. I will try later.

Sparky223 wrote:I knew I shouldn't have messed with it. Now it won't start. No more sleep for me.

This is why it's really an excellent idea to have a modest backup machine if finances permit before one's primary machine goes on the fritz.

I didn't practice what I preach for years, but I sleep much better now knowing that I have backup(s).

You might not even need to remove the humidifier - try just turning the humidity control to zero to turn it off. That way, you can still put water in it and use it as an unheated passover humidifier. Then, during the day you can get back to troubleshooting and fixing it.

These look like pretty standard Molex type connectors. Does this problem happen a lot? Would it be worth someone sourcing a kit with a replacement cable? Or is it relatively rare?

I disconnected the humidifier all together and it is still doing it.

Did you just separate it externally? If so, you could try opening the blower unit and pulling off the connector that burnt though. If that doesn't get it running, then it looks like the problem with the cable caused another problem on the main board. It SHOULD work fine without the humidifier as it can be purchased with or without.

yaconsult wrote:Did you just separate it externally? If so, you could try opening the blower unit and pulling off the connector that burnt though. If that doesn't get it running, then it looks like the problem with the cable caused another problem on the main board. It SHOULD work fine without the humidifier as it can be purchased with or without.

That's exactly what I did. Pulled the connector.