CPAPtalk.com

InsomniacGuy wrote:Do you have disassembly pointers yet?

I just bought a 1.3 blower hours PR S1 Auto 560P... Definitely let me know if there is a disassembly resource out there.

there's a service manual for the prs1 in the 'member files' section over at apneaboard, or you can pm me your email addy.

How do you disassemble, that is, teardown, the machine? There seems to be two hex screws deep down within the case on the underside but I'm sure more are lurking under something else.

I cant find anything on youtube.

hyperlexis wrote:How do you disassemble, that is, teardown, the machine? There seems to be two hex screws deep down within the case on the underside but I'm sure more are lurking under something else.

I cant find anything on youtube.

two t15 screws on the front, remove the knob, take off the top, some t20 screws, iirc, inside. I didn't dig further in the one I took apart...

I had good luck de smoking my backup machine by running it along with an ozone generator in a closet for a day.

The machine was a Craigslist find and had one hour on it, so it didn't really run in the smoke, it just sat in it.

All this is moot for me though. A few of the guys in the band smoke and it gets in the machine on the bus. Usually I just put it out in the sunshine a few hours and let it run.

palerider wrote:

hyperlexis wrote:How do you disassemble, that is, teardown, the machine? There seems to be two hex screws deep down within the case on the underside but I'm sure more are lurking under something else.

I cant find anything on youtube.

two t15 screws on the front, remove the knob, take off the top, some t20 screws, iirc, inside. I didn't dig further in the one I took apart...

...and that would be my 560? I haven't descrewed any xPAPs yet...tried the Keurig 2.0. That requires supervision.

I have found a quick shot of Ozium aerosol air sanitizer does wonders. You need to pull off as many of the silicone seals and wash with dawn and oxygen bleach. A little Ozium goes a long way. It takes some time running the machine for the aerosol odor to clear, but it does kill cigarette smoke. I took off the foam and fine filter and ran a half-second shot towards the intake, then let the machine run. This spray is used by detailers to deodorize cars, and it worked for me on a used machine. I got it at Advanced Auto, but it's online and at auto stores everywhere.

Ozium works wonders, but I would want to keep it from touching the silicone.

chunkyfrog wrote:Ozium works wonders, but I would want to keep it from touching the silicone.

The humidifier has most of the silicone parts, and I agree. I scrubbed that separately and treated the blower with the ozium. Good catch.

Tatooed Lady wrote:..and that would be my 560? I haven't descrewed any xPAPs yet...tried the Keurig 2.0. That requires supervision.

mhmm.

I can probably find you disassembly instructions, or you could send a message to that clever person with the video I sent.

Found the service manual for the PR S1 at the other board -- great tip. Now all I need is a Torx 8, and I'm in business. A Torx 15 only got me so far.

Yes, the silicone parts in the humidifer reek of smoke odor despite a good scrub and a brief soak -- even the edge seal of the water tub smells. What if I soaked the silicone parts in a baking soda solution or wrapped them in a paper towel and stored them in a sealed container with baking soda? or activated carbon? To recap, silicone and Ozium aren't compatible, but silcone and oxygen bleach are ok? I hesitate to set the silicone parts directly in the sun because the UV rays might degrade the silicone. Also, is an ozone machine and Ozium the same concept in terms of the chemistry? -- I'm wary of chemical smells... which makes me wonder why I bought a smoky CPAP... maybe because I believed the Craiglist ad???

On the autopap unit, the ramp button, the flow manifold (or the silicone part that connects to it), and the UI knob all emit odors. I can't get to the inlet seal or acoustic foam yet... I hesitate to wash the ramp button -- anyone know if it has electronic components?

Finally, from the humidifier, does this dry box assembly part look safe to soak? Can't see inside it. It seems like a bizarre part -- overly complex for a part that redirects the flow from one direction to another. See photo below.

Thanks!

No electrical connectors...safe to soak.

InsomniacGuy wrote:Found the service manual for the PR S1 at the other board -- great tip. Now all I need is a Torx 8, and I'm in business. A Torx 15 only got me so far.

Yes, the silicone parts in the humidifer reek of smoke odor despite a good scrub and a brief soak -- even the edge seal of the water tub smells. What if I soaked the silicone parts in a baking soda solution or wrapped them in a paper towel and stored them in a sealed container with baking soda? or activated carbon? To recap, silicone and Ozium aren't compatible, but silcone and oxygen bleach are ok? I hesitate to set the silicone parts directly in the sun because the UV rays might degrade the silicone. Also, is an ozone machine and Ozium the same concept in terms of the chemistry? -- I'm wary of chemical smells... which makes me wonder why I bought a smoky CPAP... maybe because I believed the Craiglist ad???

On the autopap unit, the ramp button, the flow manifold (or the silicone part that connects to it), and the UI knob all emit odors. I can't get to the inlet seal or acoustic foam yet... I hesitate to wash the ramp button -- anyone know if it has electronic components?

Finally, from the humidifier, does this dry box assembly part look safe to soak? Can't see inside it. It seems like a bizarre part -- overly complex for a part that redirects the flow from one direction to another. See photo below.

Thanks!

Can you please post a link to the manual, thanks!

hyperlexis wrote:Can you please post a link to the manual, thanks!

already posted, look at the first post in the thread.

Sleeprider wrote:No electrical connectors...safe to soak.

I'm too lazy to go disassemble one of those right now, but I think that part is stamped with the plastic type. ABS perhaps?

If it is ABS, don't put alcohol on it, and it's a little less heat resistant than many other plastics.

I think the baffling inside is part of the system intended to make it harder for water to spill into the blower unit.

Don't disassemble the blower until you've simply let it air our for a long time. Run the blower for a while each day for a week or two. I might try plugging the hose up partially so that it doesn't blow an extremely large volume of air. I suspect blowing full blast into an open hose for long periods of time is rough on the machine.

Once you destench it a bit, it may help to turn the machine on and let it blow for a few seconds before masking up to let it flush out the stale air.

No need to put the machine near a window, normal room air will dilute a heavily smoked up machine as well as fresher air. A warm spot may help.

Disassemble the humidifier, mask, etc. and dishwash the non-electrical plastic parts. There are some removable silicone parts in the humidifier. Be sure you make a note of how they fit in. I think one of them can go in in two different ways, and if you put it in the wrong way, it leaks air.

I wouldn't recommend spraying anything into the machine. There really isn't anything that "eats" odors, just things that cover them up.

Yes, run the machine with at least the foam filter in the back. I'd probably leave out the fine filter for airing out, but it's not a big deal.