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chunkyfrog wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 03, 2018 3:19 pm

Almost looks like a fusible link in there.
Worst thing Chrysler ever did.
Imagine being 400 miles from home and a fusible link goes out on your motorhome.
Before the age of smartphones.
Dealer wanted a pile of moolah to install one--but refused to sell just the part.
Stinkers! We found a parts store, limped there, and the bullfrog did his thing in their parking lot.
Needless to say, we NEVER owned another Chrysler product, and sold the Dodge class C.

If you do some checking you will find that all the major cars have fusible links. Chrysler just didn't engineer their loads properly back then and located the link too close to the exhaust. They deserve all the bad press they got.

Yep, that was the heat shrink tubing . I guess I should've taken another pic after the job was completed, but you got the idea.
Chrysers? I got rid of them (2) after the head gasket blew just after the transmission was replaced on the LHS. Switched to Honda and never looked back. No regrets.

THANK GOD FOR THIS POST!

I have been using the system one of years and the humidifier just went out. Of course I had assumed the humidifier unit had gone out. I started doing some research and came across this post. I opened up my main unit and saw the exact burn mark on my plug just like the pic. I followed the instructions and now my humidifier works!

I cant thank the original poster enough for the help. Saved me a few hundo!

Scott

nsailsb you saved me! Getting ready to go on a trip tomorrow and noticed that the water reservoir was full from the previous night. Then noticed that the Humidity Level option was missing. Frantically searched the web and found your post. Opened the box and the fried plug looked identical to your pic. Followed your instructions and now the Humidity Level option shows up. Also thanks to the guy who recommended the vice-grip heat-sink tip. I also want to thank the guy who said that it's not like disarming a nuclear missile - that calmed me down and de-intimidated the process. Thanks for taking the time to post your fix.

Could someone tell what voltage should be on the red wire. Mine is 0 VDC so think I have to look further down the board for a voltage regulator or switching IC. It was the ground black wire on mine that burnt out on the 60 series.

Did this fix to my 50 Series BiPAP Auto several years ago. Humidifier still works fine.

But I wonder: Will having done this cause refusal to do the recall fix because the machine was "tampered" with? The repair is rather obvious when the cover is removed.

I hope not.

I have the same issue with the burnt connector on my System On model 50 but in addition the display on the motherboard is no longer functioning even when I disconnect the humidifier unit from the compressor unit. I am afraid that the overheating damaged the motherboard. Any idea as to how to test it or where to buy a replacement motherboard? Thx for any suggestion.

pmartin wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 05, 2022 11:11 am

I have the same issue with the burnt connector on my System On model 50 but in addition the display on the motherboard is no longer functioning even when I disconnect the humidifier unit from the compressor unit. I am afraid that the overheating damaged the motherboard. Any idea as to how to test it or where to buy a replacement motherboard? Thx for any suggestion.

Besides being past it's prime, these machines have been recalled and you are supposed to stop using it. The good news is you MAY get a newer machine out of it. See this thread: Phillips / Philips recall..website links so you can check your machine yourself & some additional information