Can a Golf battery be used to power a Cpap?

Hi
Can a Golf gel battery be used as a leasure battery to power a Cpap machine?
I estimate:
Hose 4
Humid 1
83-71 watts
0.23kwh
0.21-0.18 Amps
=>AC to DC amperage =6.84Amps DC


I'm looking at this one
Lucas Golf Battery 22Ah suitable for Hillbilly Electric Trolley https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004KQ25JO/ ... BzbEQJ17G4

I used a power meter to estimate that my dreamstation uses approx 7amps a night.

Controlshift wrote:Hi
Can a Golf gel battery be used as a leasure battery to power a Cpap machine?
I estimate:
Hose 4
Humid 1
83-71 watts
0.23kwh
0.21-0.18 Amps
=>AC to DC amperage =6.84Amps DC


I'm looking at this one
Lucas Golf Battery 22Ah suitable for Hillbilly Electric Trolley https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004KQ25JO/ ... BzbEQJ17G4

I used a power meter to estimate that my dreamstation uses approx 7amps a night.

Yes, this should be enough, but its a bit on the small side for running the humidifier. I'm surprised your reading was so low - On my 560 I measured 17 AH with humidity on 2 and the heated hose. The pump itself is about 4 AH at pressure 10, the humidifier was another 4, but since this is a function of the ambient humidity there's no way to compare. The heated hose seemed to use a lot, maybe 8 to 10 AH. You can find my report in the thread linked to in my signature, its toward the end.

I don't understand your numbers. If the Watts are 70 to 80, that's 6 Amps at 12 volts which is more than I'd expect even running through an inverter. 0.23kwh is 230 watt-hours, which is 19 amp-hours at 12 volts. And I don't understand the AC to DC conversion at all. I'm guessing you're using an AC meter like a Kill-a-Watt and an inverter; this will give you almost random results.

My first question is are you using an inverter? If so, get the 12V cable that fits your machine, that will cut you usage almost in half, Second, what is the use of this? If its for camping and you want the smallest battery for portability, then consider not using humidity or the heated hose at all. (Right now I'm in a humid environment on battery power; I don't even have a humidifier with me.) If its for home backup, consider a slightly larger battery, like a U1 size AGM battery such as:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/2000-Mini-U1-Wh ... B00G5ER3T6
This is 35 AH, weighs about 24 pounds. The AGM style battery is considered more reliable than the gel.

Controlshift wrote:I'm looking at this one
Lucas Golf Battery 22Ah suitable for Hillbilly Electric Trolley

Search for a jump starter that has a 22ah battery. It will solve the carry case and charger problem as they come together.

I found this one which could also work for resmeds as it has 2 - 22ah batteries and serves both 12V & 24v. There may be others but I'm not sure it is avail on the US site.

Use the search words in the quotes "12v Car 24v Truck 44Ah Heavyweight Heavy Duty Portable Emergency Battery Booster"

chunkyfrog wrote:HAPPY BIRTHDAY, CL!

Thank you!

I'm now officially an Old Fart!

Have a GREAT day!!!

Although the battery you linked to is a 12v battery, golf cart batteries are frequently 6 volts, so anyone else reading this thread ought to beware.

RonS wrote:Although the battery you linked to is a 12v battery, golf cart batteries are frequently 6 volts, so anyone else reading this thread ought to beware.

Yes, here in the States "golf cart battery" usually implies a 6 volt battery such as the Trojan T105 or equivalent (225AH @ 6V, 62 pounds). I use 4 of of them on the boat, actually the oversize T125s. The size in the original post is the 22AH often used in the smaller pack for mobility scooters, as opposed to the U1 (35AH) in the large packs. As noted, this is a good size if you want to save a bit of weight and aren't using humidity.

I have been looking for a battery setup to power my Intellipap cpap (w/o humidifier or heated hose) for occasional camping trips in our minivan. I was originally thinking of getting a U1 35ah AGM battery. I figured I could also use this battery in my Garden tractor and not have the battery set inactive between camping trips. After sleeping on the thought. I came up with an additional use for the battery over the winter when my garden tractor is unused. My Honda Forman ATM that I use in winter to plow snow. The Honda Forman uses a CTX14-BS 14ah AGM battery which is about half the size physically & electricly of a U1 35ah battery. I could get two CTX14-BS batteries and use them in parallel in the garden tractor creating a 28ah battery. I could also use each CTX14-BS battery independently for a few months each winter in the Honda ATM to keep the batteries from sulfating. My question is will this 28ah battery be strong enough to turn a 25hp Kohler engine in my Garden tractor? Will using it as a start battery shorten the life? I know the CTX14-BS 14ah battery will start the 450cc engine in my Honda Forman and has lasted for 5 years.

redmed wrote:... My question is will this 28ah battery be strong enough to turn a 25hp Kohler engine in my Garden tractor? Will using it as a start battery shorten the life? I know the CTX14-BS 14ah battery will start the 450cc engine in my Honda Forman and has lasted for 5 years.

Can't say for sure But I'd guess no problem. My brother has an ATV (forget the brand) that uses a U1 as a starter - it lasted 5 years of daily summer use. If the vehicle starts quick, there's only a small discharge, so the lifetime issue has more to do with how well the battery is maintained off season. The good news is that you'll get some notice when its starting to fade. These are pretty cheap so if you're getting triple duty out of them, just replace every 4-5 years.

xxyzx wrote:

Guest wrote:

Controlshift wrote:I'm looking at this one
Lucas Golf Battery 22Ah suitable for Hillbilly Electric Trolley

Search for a jump starter that has a 22ah battery. It will solve the carry case and charger problem as they come together.

I found this one which could also work for resmeds as it has 2 - 22ah batteries and serves both 12V & 24v. There may be others but I'm not sure it is avail on the US site.

Use the search words in the quotes "12v Car 24v Truck 44Ah Heavyweight Heavy Duty Portable Emergency Battery Booster"

======

many of those limit the power from the aux plug
you would have to hook up to the jumper cables from the xpap

Unless you can link to such a device I have to say this is baaad advice.

BEWARE: Poster xxyzx is not as knowledgeable as he thinks he is and becomes very hostile when challenged. Search some of his posts to see what he is capable of and please....Triple check all advice from him!!
nuff said

xxyzx wrote:

Guest wrote:

Controlshift wrote:I'm looking at this one
Lucas Golf Battery 22Ah suitable for Hillbilly Electric Trolley

Search for a jump starter that has a 22ah battery. It will solve the carry case and charger problem as they come together.

I found this one which could also work for resmeds as it has 2 - 22ah batteries and serves both 12V & 24v. There may be others but I'm not sure it is avail on the US site.

Use the search words in the quotes "12v Car 24v Truck 44Ah Heavyweight Heavy Duty Portable Emergency Battery Booster"

======

many of those limit the power from the aux plug
you would have to hook up to the jumper cables from the xpap

The load of most xpaps averages under an amp,with a peak of 3 to 4 amps. I would be very surprised if a medium size or larger jump starter, i.e. over 18 amp-hours, was fused at under 5 or even 8-10 amps.
It's certainly wise to check the specs, but using alligator clips is bad advice! They are designed to pass 100 amps or more, so if touched together they can spark and ignite something nearby. NOT FOR USE UNATTENDED!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

How about NEMA ML1-P and ML1-S twist lock connectors?

Alligator Clips can spring loose, the grip is really finicky. And "cigarette plug" adapters can't handle all the Watts which your connectors need to supply.
A NEMA standard for mini-twist lock, 2-wire applications exists; the most compact is called "ML1", with "P" and "S" suffixes for plug and socket. Some of the Sockets hang directly on cable, others have various kinds of mounting flanges. They're rated for 15A, and support #14 wires. But I drilled out the plastic wire channels on my plug a tiny bit, and it easily supports #12. And the socket supports #12 directly, with no mods required.

These are Twist-Lock, they will not pull part from a bit of stress on the cord. WRT price, you're looking at about $9 Plugs, $12 sockets. I just bought a Plug/Socket pair (Leviton) for a freshly built Resmed A10 "experimental PSU" to run in my RV (socket mounted on a bedroom wall). If my experimental PSU doesn't work, I will cut off the plug and use it on the '12V Battery Input' side of a genuine Resmed 12V->24V Converter/PSU unit - keeping the Trailer wiring and twist-lock socket in place.

TheSnoringMan wrote:How about NEMA ML1-P and ML1-S twist lock connectors?

Alligator Clips can spring loose, the grip is really finicky. And "cigarette plug" adapters can't handle all the Watts which your connectors need to supply.
A NEMA standard for mini-twist lock, 2-wire applications exists; the most compact is called "ML1", with "P" and "S" suffixes for plug and socket. Some of the Sockets hang directly on cable, others have various kinds of mounting flanges. They're rated for 15A, and support #14 wires. But I drilled out the plastic wire channels on my plug a tiny bit, and it easily supports #12. And the socket supports #12 directly, with no mods required.

These are Twist-Lock, they will not pull part from a bit of stress on the cord. WRT price, you're looking at about $9 Plugs, $12 sockets. I just bought a Plug/Socket pair (Leviton) for a freshly built Resmed A10 "experimental PSU" to run in my RV (socket mounted on a bedroom wall). If my experimental PSU doesn't work, I will cut off the plug and use it on the '12V Battery Input' side of a genuine Resmed 12V->24V Converter/PSU unit - keeping the Trailer wiring and twist-lock socket in place.

??????? Totally NOT needed< XPAP's don't draw any mpre power than a cigar lighter can provide, a 16 ga wire would be overkill 2 to 6 amps max. Jim

TheSnoringMan wrote:How about NEMA ML1-P and ML1-S twist lock connectors?

Alligator Clips can spring loose, the grip is really finicky. And "cigarette plug" adapters can't handle all the Watts which your connectors need to supply.
A NEMA standard for mini-twist lock, 2-wire applications exists; the most compact is called "ML1", with "P" and "S" suffixes for plug and socket. Some of the Sockets hang directly on cable, others have various kinds of mounting flanges. They're rated for 15A, and support #14 wires. But I drilled out the plastic wire channels on my plug a tiny bit, and it easily supports #12. And the socket supports #12 directly, with no mods required.

These are Twist-Lock, they will not pull part from a bit of stress on the cord. WRT price, you're looking at about $9 Plugs, $12 sockets. I just bought a Plug/Socket pair (Leviton) for a freshly built Resmed A10 "experimental PSU" to run in my RV (socket mounted on a bedroom wall). If my experimental PSU doesn't work, I will cut off the plug and use it on the '12V Battery Input' side of a genuine Resmed 12V->24V Converter/PSU unit - keeping the Trailer wiring and twist-lock socket in place.

Nonsense! The Goof is right, xpap pumps only use 10 watts or less, nothing for cigarette plug. Why do you think the major companies supply their DC adapters with them? I've been running my pump through one all summer for the last 4 years. Mine comes with a 8 Amp fuse, so it could handle a full humidifier/heated hose setup, though I don't often do that.

That said, I did take care that the socket I put in by my berth is not going to get jostled. On my previous boat I put in a lot of special 12v sockets but got sick of converting all my plugs to something not really needed. There's nothing wrong with using a secured plug - it just isn't necessary.