S11 vs S10

chunkyfrog wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 11, 2024 12:31 pm

vandownbytheriver wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 09, 2024 6:16 am

Sleeplay has the 10 Elite (non-APAP) on sale for 299USD! Coupon BESTPRICE. Supposedly it has the 4G modem in it. Could not pass this up, on the way... now I own three 10's. I'll report back what firmware it can run.

I had an Elite. I was miserable until I scored my first Autoset. Both were S9s.

Do you let your pressures hunt widely or have you narrowed your range? Loved my S9, still have it... I believe it's an Autoset... but I think it was set to CPAP.

davecpap wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 12, 2024 10:23 am

Any good guides on this? ~10 years ago I had my S8 AutoSet fail while traveling, so since then I've had two AirSense 10s so I always have a backup machine handy. Because I rotate them, one has 15K hours and one has 12K hours. I'm curious if a guide exists on what to clean, how to clean, what maintenance to perform, etc.. to keep them going. Thanks!

If you're mech inclined, with some electrical/electronic fu, you should be just fine. Nick has a good video where he replaces the motor... he doesn't clean it though... lazy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXoSxPP7shw

Here's a guy taking on a labor of love:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWBpZ8HKU-M

I'm picking up an AS10 Autoset with 4khours tomorrow... for 65$! It's probably that dirty... I've already ordered the motor for it. 130$ on Amazon, the Best Pick is the good one, overnight delivery for Prime.

Nobody's taking apart the rest of the machine... I stripped mine down *completely*, including the power inlet and heater plate. Mine had some buildup under the plate, I wasn't going to neglect that part. I didn't soak the heater plate, I scrubbed it with a paper towel with vinegar, both sides. The stainless plate I soaked with the rest. I warped the stainless plate so that it would bend down and touch the heater plate, I feel that's important that they contact each other. There is a flat Kapton cable connecting the hose to the circuit board... if you tug gently it will come out, and can be pushed back in, friction fit. The air outlet has a clip you push from inside the tub area then it pops out.

I used a 2lb Folgers coffee can to soak the plastic parts in white vinegar for several hours... then I used a brand-new plastic washtub to wash the parts in hot water with a little Dawn soap. I used an old toothbrush to scrub every piece, especially the silicone adapter bits for the air and the motor casing. Getting the power connector out was a little tricky but it does have a release tang. Watch the videos in reverse when re-assembling the motor in the casing, the wire routing is important for the length. If your modems no longer work you can take them out and discard them. No vinegar nor water should touch anything electronic/electrical, of course.

I put all the wet parts in the dish rack and let them dry for a day, then reassembled. I did blow out the tiny passage in the tank inlet silicone pressure sensor with canned air. If you want to get super picky like I did you can solder a new clock battery in, Digikey, about 1.40$: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/det ... GUN/965112

The case is a little fiddly... patience! It does really fit back together without forcing. There are three ports on the back of the circuit board that need to mate with their silicone sockets... you'll see two of them in the video, the other is by the tank inlet.

Anyway, have fun... I just bought a brand new Elite (non-APAP) for 299$! Now it's running vAuto firmware... we'll see if the MyAir complains tomorrow.