Giant Duckbilled Hosehead

General Discussion on any topic relating to CPAP and/or Sleep Apnea.
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BadBreath
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Giant Duckbilled Hosehead

Post by BadBreath » Thu Jul 05, 2007 12:23 pm

I’ve had requests for description and details of my modification to my Oracle nasal mask, but I don’t feel it is quite ready. I do, however, have a modification to my ComfortLite 2 which I know has been a question as well. This mod makes no changes to the original equipment, so you can always restore the mask to its original configuration. It is relatively simple and referring to the original instructions parts diagram may help you with the part names I am using.

Image

You will need:

The ComfortLife 2 mask assembly without the headgear. I removed the mask from the headgear by undoing the Velcro crown swivel connector and unsnapping the angular adjustment base.

A “one-size-fits-all” baseball cap with an elastic band or a Velcro adjustment strap, (so nothing impacts your head while lying on your back. BTW my wife thinks a Donald Duck hat is the most appropriate.) If you think a hat will be too warm you can use a cloth visor (with a stiff brim and an elastic or Velcro headband) as well.

A Velcro strap (hooks on one side, loops on the other) 6” long and 5/8” wide.


First do the sacrilegious and flatten the cap’s brim (yes it makes it look nerdy, but we are not nerds, we are hoseheads!). Make a .825” (53/64”) diameter hole in the brim, centered in the middle and 11/16” from the front of the cap (where the brim meets the cap) to the hole’s rear edge, or 1-1/32” to the center of the hole. I would suggest using a ¾” drill bit, and then take a slightly larger cylindrical object and force it through the hole (hey big guy, easy, this is a family forum!) to gradually widen the hole. You want it wide enough to force the vertical tube adjustment cylinder through the hole, but only with great difficulty. Now make two short 5/8” vertical slits in the front of the cap, one inch on either side of center, starting at the back edge of the bill and upward. You should be over the hat’s inner band, but do not cut through it.

Image

Take the mask assembly without a mask attached and from above the cap push the downtube and the vertical tube adjustment cylinder through the hole in the brim. Again, this should be difficult so the vertical tube adjustment cylinder will prevent the tube from coming back up through the hole. Seat the top of the brim against the bottom of the angular adjustment base. Now lean the mask forward and lay the Velcro strap across the back of the angular adjustment base and thread each end forward through the vertical slots on either side of the base. End up with equal lengths of the strap ends protruding forward. Now lean the mask back against the cap and thread the ends of the strap back around the outside of the angular adjustment base and through the vertical slots you previously made in the hat. Pull them inside of the cap (as tight as you can, making the angular adjustment base flush against the hat, as this will allow for the most angular adjustment) and hook them together under the hats inside band.

I would leave the flex tube and crown swivel connector free from the hat, as this will minimize the effects the hose can have on the mask assembly when you are moving around. All of the adjustments still work, with the vertical tube adjustment below the bill, and the angular adjustment above it (although that one will now require two hands, one to stabilize the base). Put on the hat and tighten the rear hat strap as much as is comfortable. Attach the chosen interface (nasal pillows, direct seal or simple mask) and adjust as usual. For side sleepers you can sharply bend the outside edges of the brim downward so they are inside of the line of your cheekbones (and thus restoring the “cool” factor). The end result is that the stabilization provided by the original forehead platform, and the resulting pressure, is now distributed throughout the hat. In essence it is a headband with a stabilizing platform for the downtube assembly.

Image


I find it to be comfortable, flexible and stable enough to maintain the seal. Let me know how it works for you or if you have any questions.

Denny

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CPAPopedia Keywords Contained In This Post (Click For Definition): hose, oracle, seal


linda b
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Post by linda b » Thu Jul 05, 2007 12:55 pm

THANK YOU SO MUCH. I've been trying for several days to come up with a deconstructed solution to my CL2, but have not been too successful. I thought so at first, but the last two nights I've had terrible leak problems and it all stems from insufficient support at the forehead. If I can get your idea to work on a visor with a head strap that will go under my hair at the neckline (I'd like to avoid "hat hair" if I can), then use a stretchy-type strap (think panty hose fix) around the down tube just above the vent holes, I think I'll have it made.

I'm on my way to Wal-Mart to get some visors!!

Linda B.

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Stefernie
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Post by Stefernie » Thu Jul 05, 2007 12:59 pm

*quack*


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Sergey45
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Re: Giant Duckbilled Hosehead

Post by Sergey45 » Thu Jul 05, 2007 1:07 pm

You are genius!
I will try that too.

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BadBreath
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Post by BadBreath » Thu Jul 05, 2007 2:33 pm

then use a stretchy-type strap (think panty hose fix) around the down tube just above the vent holes
If the brim of the visor is stiff enough (cloth covered plastic) you should not need additional pressure on that rigid downtube, except maybe if you are using the simple mask. The nasal pillows and the direct seals actually work better with less pressure, not more, because if they collapse against the nose they develop folds, which leak. All they really require is proper placement using the built in adjustments to create a light, full contact. Also too much rigidity can transfer your head movements and cause the seals to move off the nose surface. Try to achieve a "floating" seal.


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rested gal
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Post by rested gal » Thu Jul 05, 2007 3:16 pm

OMG! Now, how clever is THAT?! Love it!

If ever a person earned one of these, you sure did, Denny!

Image

Congratulations.

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grybeard77
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Post by grybeard77 » Thu Jul 05, 2007 4:54 pm

I had to take another step on my Duck Bill conversion. The adjustment knob tended to pop up out of the hole in the bill, so I poked 2 small slots on each side of the fixture and from underneath, poked a twist tie up thru and over top of the rear plastic frame and tied it off to keep every thing in the hole.
Can post a picture if needed.

Great idea, can hardly wait to try it out tonight. I had originally cut the top half off my CL2 and used a single head band to hold it in place, it did tend to slip around some so I think your remake is far superior. Thanks for the great post...

Being a 99% side sleeper, i also got my sheet metal snips out and cut the bill down on each side, taped them over and don't have to worry about bending the bill out of the way...

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Machine: ResMed AirSense™ 10 AutoSet™ CPAP Machine with HumidAir™ Heated Humidifier
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Additional Comments: I use Sleepyhead software, it's the best!

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BadBreath
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Post by BadBreath » Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:00 pm

If ever a person earned one of these, you sure did, Denny!
Thank your for the honor! I got so exited I almost wet myself (or is that another symptom of OSA? LOL I feel a poll coming on...)
i also got my sheet metal snips out and cut the bill down on each side, taped them over and don't have to worry about bending the bill out of the way...
Yeah GB, I almost did that as well but when I saw how easy it was to fold them, I decided not to take away from how cool it looks.

BTW, y'all - here's the hot summer version...

Image

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grybeard77
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Post by grybeard77 » Thu Jul 05, 2007 11:14 pm

That's basically what my surgically altered headgear looks like after I cut the top off my original CL2 . I just used the lower pad and left the rest of it attached and used another masks head band on it to hold it in place on my forehead.

I will try your version tonight and let you know which one I like best. I originally cut the top off because the upper part that rest on the top of my head was wearing the hair off causing a thin spot. Can't have that!!!!!

That's also part of the reason why I quit the Breeze and went to the CL2.


_________________
Machine: ResMed AirSense™ 10 AutoSet™ CPAP Machine with HumidAir™ Heated Humidifier
Mask: AirFit™ P10 Nasal Pillow CPAP Mask with Headgear
Additional Comments: I use Sleepyhead software, it's the best!

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grybeard77
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Post by grybeard77 » Fri Jul 06, 2007 8:23 am

Well, I lasted about 2 hours and then took it off and went back to my version. There was no way I could sleep on my side with what was left of the bill on the cap . It just prevented me assuming my usual face in the pillow sleep position. Going to try removing all the bill and using what's left as a whole head mask holder.

That's for a report tomorrow.

_________________
Machine: ResMed AirSense™ 10 AutoSet™ CPAP Machine with HumidAir™ Heated Humidifier
Mask: AirFit™ P10 Nasal Pillow CPAP Mask with Headgear
Additional Comments: I use Sleepyhead software, it's the best!

linda b
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Post by linda b » Fri Jul 06, 2007 1:05 pm

Hubby wants to know what kind of drill bit you guys are using. He's afraid an ordinary bit will tear up the cap bill and wondered if you might be using a hole saw or just what you used. His largest bit is 1/2 inch and his smallest hole saw is too big, so we'll have to go get something and want to make sure it is the right thing.

Thanks a bunch. I can hardly wait.
Linda B.

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grybeard77
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Post by grybeard77 » Fri Jul 06, 2007 2:38 pm

I used a 1/2 " Fostner wood drill bit, it was the largest I had on hand. Then I used some aircraft tin snips to cut the rest of the hole out. I have since then cut all the bill of the cap off except for approx 1/2 " around that original hole. I refastened the fixture in the hole and then I also cut two slots in the hat on each side of the tubing at the crown of the hat and used another short piece of Velcro strap and tied the tube down which helps anchor everything.
I hope this all makes sense to you with out attaching pictures, I could do that if need be if you would PM me your e-mail address...


_________________
Machine: ResMed AirSense™ 10 AutoSet™ CPAP Machine with HumidAir™ Heated Humidifier
Mask: AirFit™ P10 Nasal Pillow CPAP Mask with Headgear
Additional Comments: I use Sleepyhead software, it's the best!

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christinequilts
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Post by christinequilts » Fri Jul 06, 2007 2:56 pm

What's ironic is the original ComfortLite was described as fitting like a baseball cap.
So much for all there improvements with CL2
Image

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grybeard77
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Post by grybeard77 » Fri Jul 06, 2007 3:27 pm

So very true. I have that head band as well and found the hard plastic way to uncomfortable on my head.

I just tried to nap with my latest 'BadBreath ball cap conversion' and still find my CL2 cutoff head gear the most comfortable. It looks very much like Badbreaths summer version does, but with out the hole through the bill. As soon as I get my digital camera's batteries recharged, I will have some pictures available if any one wants to see them...

_________________
Machine: ResMed AirSense™ 10 AutoSet™ CPAP Machine with HumidAir™ Heated Humidifier
Mask: AirFit™ P10 Nasal Pillow CPAP Mask with Headgear
Additional Comments: I use Sleepyhead software, it's the best!

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BadBreath
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Post by BadBreath » Fri Jul 06, 2007 3:42 pm

Hubby wants to know what kind of drill bit you guys are using.
Just a 3/4" wood drill bit. If you go fast enough the material doesn't tear but does shred, and you will need to trim away the edges.
Then I used some aircraft tin snips to cut the rest of the hole out.
That explains why you needed extra support for the tube, because a tight hole will prevent the tube from rising out. I used a long 5/8" wrench socket (the outside is the almost perfect diameter, about .82) to ream the hole out the rest of the way.

My second conversion on the visor took about ten minutes.