Cheap heated hose

[Bert_Mathews]

Mine is inside the hose -BUT- if it works on the outside <Didn't Try!>
The people that are worried about burning things down the timer works on the tape and for the humidifiers that are separate powered units !!!
BigGuy if you would slip a small plastic baggie over the rubber end of the hose the cover will slip on slicker than anything!!

BERT

PS: I have tried higher wattage wapping it around the hose -IT- was OVER KILL and to warm!!

[TossinNTurnin]

I'm glad you bumped up this thread.

I was able to get the aussie hose, which I like... but I think this Repti Cable version worked even better for me.

But, the Aussie works most of the time as well.

[Snooze_Blues]

I've been using my DIY heated hose and heated mask utilizing the Zoo Med Repti Heated Cable (available at finer pet stores) for a month now and I love it. Yesterday I made a modification to reduce the air temperature at the mask because I thought I might enjoy breathing slightly cooler air.

My original setup utilized a true thermostat (Zoo Med ReptiTemp 500R Thermostat), which worked well, but seemed to warm the air a bit more than I preferred. I assumed the internal hose temperature was probably going up and down quite a bit when the thermostat kicked on and off over the night, creating a saw-tooth temperature curve that was probably warming the hose air a bit too much on the upside and allowing it to cool a bit too much on the downside, forcing me to increase the thermostat setting at bit so the lowest temp, or perhaps the average temp, on the saw-tooth curve didn't cause rainout. I swapped the thermostat for a simpler rheostat controller. I figured a steady temp just above the rainout spot would result in a more consistent and cooler temperature air to breathe, and I was right.

Rather than build or buy a box to hold a simple household dimmer switch (rheostat), which was my first inclination since I have a bunch of them laying around (I may still do this later) I spent about $22 on the Zoo Med ReptiTemp Rheostat ( http://tinyurl.com/3cgeuc ) at my local brick and mortar PetSmart. It cost a few bucks more than on the Internet, but there was no shipping and I got it the same day.

The dial has a nice smooth feel with a positive on / off click. I was worried a bit when I first connected it to my Kill-a-Watt meter (see: the latest photos in the "My: Setup" link in my sig) because 13 watts was as low as it would achieve, probably to prevent accidental reptile hypothermia events. But 13 watts turned out to be just about right for my purposes.

To test things I left it at 13 watts the entire night. The air temperature at my mask was noticeably cooler than before, although still fairly warm. Somewhere around daybreak, a couple drops of water in my CL2 mask's Direct Seal nosepiece ran into my nose and woke me up. Not the river of fear gusher into the nostrils experienced during my first few weeks of CPAP therapy, which seemed like the great flood of Noah or Old Faithful spouting, just a few drops that at first I wasn't quite certain had actually dripped out, but which upon closer examination, had indeed awakened me.

The only condensation found was what was in the nosepiece of the mask. There weren't even the micro-droplets in the CL2 elbow that connects to the main hose, which sometimes appear at marginal [wattage] settings. The few drops were only in the lowest, most exposed, least insulated portion of the Direct Seal "silicon bulb" itself. To attempt to remedy this, tonight I'm going to run the Repti Heat Cable at 15 watts and reduce my F&P HC150 humidifier from 2.75 to 2.50 to try and keep the air temperature I'm breathing as cool as possible while juggling a reasonably high humidity level.

Once I get the rheostat set at just the right spot, I may try adding the thermostat back into the circuit to see what happens.

[roster]

I bought the Zoo Med Repti Heat cable and have been delighted with the results--absolutely no rainout! However, yesterday I forgot to unplug it before I left for work, and apparently part of the hose was underneath my pillow. When I turned my APAP on last night, there was no air, so I started investigating and discoverd that the Repti heat cable had melted the plastic on the hose on the section that had been underneath the pillow! I had already been spooked by the fact that I left it plugged in all day and was just thinking "Gosh, I'm glad I didn't burn the house down" but when I saw the melted hose it really shook me up! Has this happened to anyone else? I'm going to keep using the heat cable, because it is so nice not to deal with any rainout, but thought I would share my experience as a warning to always double check that you've unplugged the heat cable when you're not using the CPAP!

Source: viewtopic/t29752/Melted-my-hose.html

[Snooze_Blues]

Historic News Flash:
Snooze Continues Nightly Intercourse with Repti Heated Cable
Snooze-Repti Hybrid Phenotype Viability in Question
Natural Selection and FUD Threaten Unholy Offspring

Since I have no children, and don't plan to, my dubious DNA likely won't contaminate the ever-ascending glory of the Homo sapien[t] gene pool.

WARNING: Repti Heated Cables are only for non-extinct reptiles and potential Darwin Award winners.

(From memory)

6 foot Aussie Hose:
12W / 6' = 2W per foot

15 watt, 11.5 foot Repti Cable:
~5.5 feet are unheated
6 feet are heated
15W / 6' = 2.5W per foot (full power)

25 watt, 14 foot Repti Cable:
~5.5 feet are unheated
8.5 feet are heated
25W / 8.5' = 2.9W per foot (full power)

Snooze added a rheostat to the 25 watt, 14 foot Repti Cable to reduce the power consumption to 15 watts total. So...

25 watt, 14 foot Repti Cable, with rheostat:
15W / 8.5' = 1.76W per foot (using rheostat)

Therefore, the 15 watt Repti Cable at full power is a bit warmer (per foot) than the Aussie Heated Hose, the 25 watt Repti Cable at full power is warmer still. But Snooze's Repti Cable with the Repti Rheostat is cooler than both full power Repti's, as well as the 6 foot Aussie Heated Hose.

I replaced the Repti Thermostat with the Repti Rheostat to reduce the wattage continuously. The thermostat I used first ran at full power, on, off, on, off, etc. It seemed to always be too warm or too cool and was difficult to adjust to prevent rain-out and not warm the air too much. The rheostat lowers the wattage continuously so the Repti Cable is continuously cooler than at full power. I turned the rheostat down to the lowest wattage that would still prevent rain-out, and no more. It works great. If I have any problems, I'll report them.

Now, if I could just stop catching bugs with my tongue...

[ozij]

[quote="Snooze_Blues"]

Now, if I could just stop catching bugs with my tongue...

[mkirkwag]

Am I the only one who had meltdown with the 15 watt cable? I had meltdown - so be aware.

[Snooze_Blues]

Am I the only one who had meltdown with the 15 watt cable? I had meltdown - so be aware.

Mine's still working fine after 5 months, but as I indicate above, I use the 25W Repti-Cable with a 10 foot hose and mitigate potential melting sequellae using : (1) a wattage control device (e.g. either the Repti-Temp-Rheostat (13 - 25W), or more recently, a common slide-adjustable lamp dimmer (~$12), which gives a lower possible wattage for summer use (0 - 25W)), combined with; (2) a Kill-a-Watt meter (I already had) to adjust and monitor actual wattage output; and (3) a cheap electronic timer that automatically turns everything off during the day, so I can't forget and leave it on.

Summer wattage is from 7 - 12 watts. Winter wattage was higher. Around 13 - 17 watts IIRC. My rig has the additional benefit of heating my " CL2 with Direct Seal", which has a tendency to rain-out worse than the 10-foot hose for some reason. Solved both problems.

Like other electrical devices, especially resistive heating types, you don't want to leave them on and forget about them. They get hot, hotter, and who knows...

[mkirkwag]

How hot are your cables to the touch? I was pretty clear that mine melted down because I leave it on all the time. Last night I wrapped it around my cable and plugged it in. Since it was on top of the cover, I could feel it. It was actually somewhat uncomfortable to the touch. I don't think it was that hot when I started with it. I'm trying to figure out a way to fit a timer into the mess (2 cpaps with humidifiers and a heated mattress pad - no room for a timer), but in the meantime, it's just plug and unplug. I'm afraid to use it. Does this sound like the normal amount of heat?

[Guest]

Last night I wrapped it around my cable and plugged it in.

You mean wrapped the heat cable around your hose? Right? It would be helpful to know how many watts your cable is. Imagine touching a lightbulb of the same wattage.

In any case you want to avoid the heat cable touching itself if you wrap or that is where it WILL MELT. Else just run it straight. I am not sure on this but think the heater only comes on when the room temp drops. So if it's say 70, I don't think it comes on.

There is a plugin timer which can be set to cycle on/off in half-hour increments if that would help.

[p2pjunkie]

I've been using the same cable for almost a year now...

I run the cable straight along the hose, not spiraled.
Wrapping the cable around and around the hose will concentrate the warmth and also increase the odds of melting your hose. The cable will be cooler the more you spread it out, or hotter if' it's in a smaller space.

I have also been using a repti rheostat (basically a dimmer switch) during the warmer months. It works fairly well to control it, and I can turn it off without having to unplug it.

A timer is a great idea... I'm sure you can find a way to wire it in, and also there is no thermostat here, if it's pluged in, it's on...

[Goofproof]

How hot are your cables to the touch?

Heat is relative, electricity flowing through a resistor gives off heat. The air flows over the resistor, warming the air and cooling the resistor. If you shut off the airflow the resistor get hotter, it you have it covered by a pillow or some other covers, it gets even hotter. If that temp exceeds the ignition point of the material, you have fire or at the least melting. If you cross the heat cable, where it crosses it's self it gets even hotter.

When you buy a product to do a job, the manufacture is supposed to take the precautions to keep you safe. (UL Approved) If you use something for another use than is intended, it's ok, but the safety factor, is your responsibly. Jim

[Guest]

... and also there is no thermostat here, if it's pluged in, it's on...

My mistake, forgot I added a controller to mine bc it is ON all the time, sorry.

[markinOz]

Used this all winter and no problems what-so-ever. Do it.

[Snooze_Blues]

How hot are your cables to the touch?

Remember (assuming you've carefully read all the detailed posts above), I'm using a rheostat (lamp dimmer) to reduce my cable's heat output by 40%, but more importantly, my actual (measured) 15 watts (varies by season) is distributed along a longer CPAP hose (10 feet) and longer Repti-Heat-Cable (15 feet), so my hose and cable will be cooler than yours. FYI, my cable is "warm to the touch" at a 15 watt output.

Please, use common sense, but more importantly, always err on the side of safety. If it feels too hot, it probably is. If you can't touch it continuously without it feeling uncomfortable, I'd say it's probably too hot.

I'm afraid to use it.

Then I'd suggest you stop using it and buy yourself an Aussie Heated Hose that is intended for CPAP use. These Do-It-Yourself (DIY) solutions aren't for everyone. In fact, if you don't have some of the equipment mentioned already laying around, like my Kill-o-Watt meter, a volt-ohm meter, a lamp dimmer switch (rheostat), a 3-way plug, an electronic timer, etc., etc., you may end up spending as much, or even more, for the DIY solution as you would for the "real McCoy" (Aussie Heated Hose).

As an aside, I studied electronics and electricity in high school, spent two years studying science at a university, have been a "lay hobbyist" with these types of things my entire life, had a father who was a SAC air force mechanic who had me cleaning parts while he rebuilt the family car engine as I looked on, have a father-in-law who was an electrical engineer and to whom I can ask many of my "dumber questions", and have also managed to play safely with very dangerous toys most of my life (exceptions apply) .

IMO, some DIY solutions, perhaps this one since it involves electricity and heat, should be avoided by otherwise intelligent people from less technical backgrounds and sensibilities (aka: non-nerds), who may not understand, nor wish to accept, otherwise avoidable risk, or who may not possess the anal retentiveness and accompanying mild to moderate obsessive-compulsive nature so often required to continuously monitor and assess DIY equipment functionality to insure the highest possible level of personal safety when utilizing solutions that are "outside-the-blister-pack".

Let me summarize... If you are a person who likes things that are dangerous, that go really fast, or perhaps even explode, then you are a "shoe-in" for the Repti-Heated-Cable solution. If you are a more cautious person who prefers to avoid risk, who runs away from danger instead of toward it, or who views emergency situations with trepidation instead of attraction, then you may be better suited for the Aussie Heated Hose solution.

Does this sound like the normal amount of heat?

I can't tell from here, but if you have any doubts, you may be better served by saving your dimes and buying an Aussie Heated Hose. While there are a couple reports that it too has had safety issues, at least it is specifically intended, designed, tested, and approved for your application (CPAP).